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I have a very similar problem with Bosch Solitaire toaster

Sent away for repair once, and came back with a new control board. Toaster refuses to latch on when cold. If you let it heat up first and then try to latch it sometimes works. When you unplug the toaster to ''reboot'' it the main earth leakage breaker in the house trips. This doesn't happen with other items in this socket. Expensive piece of garbage. Bosch are still high priced but no longer the quality they once were.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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snakehead
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SOURCE: Toaster broken???

these toaster has to be pluged in so that the lift lever could stay down.

Posted on Feb 25, 2007

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SOURCE: My Krups model 288 toaster won't always latch down.

You can fix this yourself by following these instructions. Unplug your toaster before proceeding!... Clean the toaster first. Turn the toaster upside-down and shake out the crumbs. Remove and clean the bottom crumb tray. 1. Unscrew the four Phillips head screws located in the corners of the bottom base. Remove the screws completely if possible. Do this over a cloth or newspaper - that way a stuck screw won't get lost if it falls out later. 2. With the toaster right-side up, pull off the wide toast lever knob. Do not remove the round adjustment knob (it will not come off from the outside) but make a mental note of what number (1-7) is showing at the knob's adjustment mark. 3. Carefully pry up the end of the case cover with the knob on it (don't pull on the "stop" button). When the knob's plastic shaft is clear of the circuit board, gently pull off the cover. 4. On the inner part of the circuit board you will see a black plastic "cam" surrounded by two sets of electrical contacts. Rotate the cam to open the contact points if necessary. Insert a thin nail file between the points and rotate the cam to trap the file between them, then scrub back and forth several times to clean the contact points. Do this for each contact on both sides of the cam. When finished, rotate the cam clockwise so it is all the way back down to it's original position. 5. To make re-assembly easier, remove the round adjustment knob from the cover by depressing the half-round shaft flanges inside the cover with your fingernails. 6. Re-assemble the toaster by reversing steps 1 & 2. Replace the knobs, making sure that the round one is in the same position you noted earlier before you push it all the way down.

Posted on Mar 27, 2007

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Toaster will not stay down in toast position

The toaster lever is held down by a magnetic coil.

It is the small cube shaped thing with the red wire would around it. More than likely the coil is open. Second guess would be the coil is not being energized.

Outside chance the problem could be mechanical and related to the steel plate that will set on top of the coil when the lever is pushed down.

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: The toaster portion on my

I just took mine apart. There is a small 24v relay that should switch and allow the toaster elements to come on.

If it is not staying down then there magnetic coil is not working. There is another question like this here.

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: Russell Hobbs RH2T toaster bread won't stay down w/o hold handle

Hi, most new toaster have a selenoid that hold down the handle while toasting then release when done so a spring bring the toast up. Possible problem with the selenoid, the electronic circuit that controls it or the plate that the selenoid holds. When you lower the handle you close the contacts of the AC line inside the toaster so if the handle is raised there is no power.

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

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2 Answers

Toaster wont stay down


Just fixed my Breville CT20. Cleaned the contacts, there were no impeding crumbs so I tested again and still wouldn't stay locked. I finally replaced the 470uf 16v capacitor on the control board just below the electromagnet and wow, works like a brand new toaster! I got lucky, saving bits and pieces of old circuits sometimes pays off.
toaster-wont-stay-down-1h1xuof4er41rm4qkikzo3jl-2-0.jpg

Jan 12, 2015 | Breville Vtt002 Polished Stainless Steel 4...

1 Answer

Cuisinart CPT-180


default_avatar.png Dale Anderson
1- Crumbs or part wearout may be keeping the plastic latch from engaging. If you have the toaster apart, you can compare the arm latching action of the good side with the bad side--maybe there is an obvious difference in the travel of the arm that keep it from engaging.---leaving the travel short even 1/8" can keep the latch from engaging.

2- If there is nothing obviously mechanically wrong, then it may be a control board malfunction. Make sure the 3-pin control board connector is plugged into the transformer/solenoid board. Since you are getting lights, this should be OK. You have at least one good board (the side that works) so you could plug that board into the other side to see if the arm stays down. For fun, you can plug the bad board into the other side to see if the other side now malfunctions. If the problem follows the board, then you have your answer.

If you know someone that understands electronics, they may be able to repair the board--have them look at electrolytic capacitor C1 and make sure it is good. If that part is bad, it can be replaced for about $1 by going to Fry's and purchasing a replacement capacitor. After a couple of years of use, a defective C1 may "dry out" and cause control board problems.

  • I repaired the same symtom that happened to one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster. The magnets wouldn't engage due to a bad C1 capacitor on the circuit board that controlled that side of the toaster--the capacitor was bulged out on the bottom and turned out to be bad. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board.
    C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down due to the magnets not engaging or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place.
    Pictures:
    C1_location (next to screw)
    Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1
    Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1
    Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings
    5487aa4b-7e7d-4e6f-9542-cf9ff618008c.jpg2d853c87-48b6-4735-99f4-fdd5dbc60ffe.jpge1a82299-a243-46e1-b11b-4c20e0d9b304.jpg5543b7e5-8108-4b1d-bed3-90eee4600722.jpg
    Jun 24, 2014

May 26, 2014 | Cuisinart CPT-180 Metal Classic 4-Slice...

1 Answer

The left side of the toaster does not stay engaged...if I hold it down it heats up but it doesn't stay down ..it doesn't catch.


There are two printed circuit boards inside front of toaster - One PC board for each side. The circuit board on the side that won't latch down in the "toasting" position , is defective. Now, does anyone have access to a schematic for this toaster?

Jul 02, 2011 | Cuisinart CMT-400 Cast Metal 4-Slice...

2 Answers

For some reason, the mechanism to hold down the toast is not working and it keep popping up as if it is stuck on the ''cancel'' function.


When this happens it is usually due to the fact that the electronics inside the unit has failed, and will not activate the hold in relay.
Time for a new one. Repair may be an option, but probably not an ecconomic repair.

Jan 22, 2010 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Toaster button does not latch.


The buttons latch is actually an electromagnet that is engaged and disengaged by a small timer located on the toasters circuit board. The most likely reason why the button will not stay latched is a bad connection to the magnet. Unplug the toaster and open the right side panel by removing the machine screw located on the underside of the toaster. You will notice a pretty simple circuit board with 2 (usually red) wires leading to the magnet. If you have trouble locating the magnet, push the "toast" button and watch out for the component it butts up too. Because the wires attached to the magnet are soldered firmly to the circuit board, the poor connection is usually at the magnet. Gently push the wires towards the magnet to ensure a good connection. To test, plug the toaster in, being sure to remove any tools or loose components from the toaster, and push in the button so see if it latches. If it does latch, open the door to disengage and unplug the toaster before reassembling. If it does not latch, you may need to replace the magnet.

Jan 11, 2010 | Black & Decker TRO210 Toaster Oven with...

1 Answer

Microwave goes on but does not heat


  • Magnetron is fried. Resistance between the magnetron terminals should be less than 3 ohms. Resistance from the magnetron terminal to ground should be infinite.
  • Fried HV capacitor. Use your ohm meter to test it.
  • Fried control board. If power is going to the board but not going off to the other components, the board is bad and needs to either be replaced or track down the bad connection (GE/Hotpoints).
  • HV Rectifier is shorted or open. Test forward and reverse bias with a megohmmeter. If continuity in both directions, rectifier is shorted, replace. If no continuity in either direction, rectifier is open, replace.
  • More help on testing specific components inside your microwave oven in this handy chart.

Aug 14, 2009 | Oster 4877 / 4878 / 6209 Toaster Oven with...

2 Answers

"Outside" heating elements don't heat up. Can I find replacements


its not the elements . its the control board . and you cannot buy a control board , but it can be fixed there is a small relay on the board that needs to resoldered to the printed curcit board . its a pain the the rear-end to get to it , fix it and get back in there and all back together but it can be done ( about 3 hours total ) , if your like me and never say never ......... good luck

Feb 17, 2009 | Philips HD2533 2-Slice Toaster

1 Answer

Defective toaster model HD2533-2


You are trying to latch with power on?
An internal electro-magnet on most toasters pulls the latch into postion.

Dec 01, 2017 | Philips HD2533 2-Slice Toaster

1 Answer

Lower Heating element will not turn on


take notice of the local repairers
if they say parts are hard to come by , a DIY will have even more trouble
junk it and get a new one

Nov 24, 2017 | DeLonghi EO1258 - Stainless Steel Toaster...

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