I keep getting ice over coil. I have to open it up and defrost it about once a week and it just comes right back. AI was told this is a sign of low coolant. Is this true or could there be another culprit.
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Re: ice over coil
Incorrect coolant or freon pressure in the system. Other than that there may be dirt on the coils or the air is not circulating well at the back of the fridge which may cause the fridge to work in-efficienty
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Is it "defrosting" the food or unable to keep it frozen? Probably unable to keep frozen. Many possible problems. 1. Defrost element bad and evaporator coil is iced over, or 2. Failed evaporator fan inside freezer, or 3. Low freon causing iced up evaporator coil....Do you see any ice build up on the back wall of freezer? Do you hear the freezer fan running or not? Take a look and get back to me.
when you removed the back panel if you look on the right side you'll see a round coil next to the fan you have to clean that out at least once a year,if you get a shop vac you can vac off the coil and then set it to blow and blow the coil out to clean it,if your food is staying clod you don't have a problem,when the machine goes into defrost there's a heater in the freezer that melts the ice off of the coil,when it comes on the temp will get warmer for like a half hour or so until it comes out of defrost and starts to cool again.hope this helps
What you started out with was a defrost issue,adding freon made your problem worse,pressure on the low side when fully charged should be around 0 to 3 lbs. the most common problem with theses units is the adaptive defrost control sits in the refrigerator section top right corner above the white plastic cover.part # 61005988 runs about $70.
Second most common defrost issue is the defrost thermostat # 61006199 runs around $45 comes wired in with the heater assy sits behind the wall in the back of the freezer. But first you need to get someone to evacuate the system and put in the right charge it will be on the model number tag on the ceiling of the fridge it's somewhere between 4 and 6 onces not pounds.
The drain at the bottom of the freezer under the coils is clogged. Remove Icemaker if you have one, remove bottom floor of freezer, remove back panel of freezer. Use hairdryer to melt ice. ALL ICE MUST BE REMOVED. Use hot water and a turkey baster to get ice out of drain hole located about middle under coils. Be patient, do not chip ice with sharp tool. After ice is removed pour hot water down drain hole. Water must come out in drain pan under refrigerator(you may have to take front grille off to get to pan)
If Ice returns after a few weeks, you need to look at defrost thermostat which is usually clipped on cold coil at back of freezer. This part or the defrost timer could be defective.
if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting.causes:
3.too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals
4.the condensate drain tube is clogged
if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s).
no air, no fan.Replace
if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off.but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.
unplug the fridge.remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up.use a hair dryer to melt the ice.do not get too close.you will see a drain under the evaporator coil.make sure it is not blocked.the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor.once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up.plug the fridge in and turn it on.If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
You have a plugged defrost drain. easiest way to fix it is unload freezer compartment defrost all of the ice, then remove the 2 screws that hold the rear cover in place about half way down the back wall. once this is removed use hot water to flush out the aluminum evap pan at the bottom of the coil. once it is cleared i will usually pur a little bleach in to kill any algae build up.\
be sure to unplug the refrig and use caution not to cut your self on the evap coil as the fins are very sharp..
Ok the freezer section works the refrig section think of the refrigerator as a large cooler with an inlet and outlet hole cold air is blown into the refrig from the freezer via the fan motor in the freezer the really cold air comes in the top of the refrig and drops to the bottom of the refrig then it is sucked back into the freezer thru a vent hole in the bottom of the refrigerator ..GOT IT?? Now when a unit has a defrost problem there is an ice or frost build up in the freezer on the coil (bad heater,bad bi metal, bad timer can cause this) the ice builds and builds to the point where it blocks the air flow across the coil hence the air can not get to the refrigerator section making it warmer but the freezer section will work ok .. I hope this makes sense...Hint : A sign of this is a lg frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer.
Might be icy. First, fully defrost by either removing the rear panel and using a hair dryer (dangerous) or leave it off and open for two days. Check door gaskets and clean or repair. Clean condenser coils under the unit. Now, take off the back lower panel and find the compressor. Largest pipe is what we're interested in. Start unit. It will frost the pipe. After 5 minutes, frost should be replaced by ice, dry or wet...not frost. If still frosty, you need freon. Hard to know what the right price would be.
What else could it be? Thermostat, defrost timer. Try my stuff before going on.
Normally if you defrost a frost free and put it back on then it should operate normally for approx two to three weeks. You probably have a defrost heater, stat or timer not operating correctly. The defrost timer once located can normally be manually turned to a defrost cycle and you can see if the heater kicks in. I would try this with the coil frozen and see if you can see the ice melting. If it fails to melt the ice it is a heater or stat, if it fails to come off defrost then it is a timer fault. Hope this is of some help.