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The fuse is blowing due to an overload. It's often and very likely caused by a transistor or ic that has gone short. The main culprits are the power transistors of the amp or whatever is on the big heat sink. Transistors will show the fault when you connect an ohmmeter to the terminals. It will be just like you have touched the test prods together! I don't think in your case it will be in the power supply. It's often caused by speaker cables that touch together.
Suggest connecting a spare amplifier to the monitor output from the tape 2 record connection. This will confirm the operation of the pre-amps. You can cycle through all the input selections AM FM phono etc and confirm that the front end is working.
If the before speaker amp is OK than check for broken solder connections at the PC board caused from thermal cycling. Check for failed power resistors. If resistor has failed replace with identical wattage and type. Resistors in the power circuits of these vintage receivers are used as fuse/saftey and will fail from thermal cycling/ Last check for failed capacitors.
Ususally this fuse (if there is one) is located near or in the socket. Unfortunateley I don't have a photo to discribe to you, but it might be under the black counterclockwise cap or at one square area just under (or above) the socket.
In case of a problem or clarification, don't hesitate to post.
Thanks and regards Please kindly rate this solution Stelios direct FixYa link: http://www.fixya.com/users/technical114
Hi There DEKCAT
Its very unusual for both channels to blow......
I suspect that there is a blown power fuse inside the case......
There are fuses sometime located on the outside rear of the case and these can be easily checked to determine if they are blown..If you find one is blown please replace with the corrrect rated fuse,..... its current rating wil be on a small label on the case outside rear. like 1.0amp, or 1.5amp etc...
If you need to go inside the case please ensure the power plug is removed from the wall socket first.
You will find small glass fuses in the DC power supply feeds and probably one of these has blown, once again replace with the correct rated fuse.
Im not sure if your amplifier is a FET type or a large 32-40 pin IC type as if these are blown you will need a service person to do the replacement...
Please note there is a small relay that clicks 20seconds after turn on at the switch....if this click is not happening then there is problems with the timer circuit or the relay itself...
This relay controls the output to the speakers and as such stops all the sound output if its not working...so the first thing is to check all fuses, if they are OK then check the Relay operations....
You can tap the amplifier's remote wire into the accessory power lead at the back of the head unit. On most head units this is a red wire. Doing this will make your amplifier turn on and off with the key switch, rather than the deck power.