I have a problem with the door lock mechanism. The error code suggests replacing the mechanism. My serviceman ordered the mechanism and called me when it arrived. The cost of the part is $239 which with the labor involved is neaing the price that I paid for the oven. Evidently this is a common problem with this particular oven.
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more than likely the tco thermal cutout fuse has opened during cleaning and now the ovens latch motor cant get power to open,its under the top cover where the surface elements are located its a frequent thing with all ovens/stoves
need to know what model and brand you have. most newer ovens only need you to remove the racks, then push the button for self clean, push the button to allow about a 3 hour clean cycle and it should then go into a lock the door mode. after the time is up it will need to cool down and then you should be able to open the latch and wipe out any burnt residues.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked - If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit
F2 Note: Also see fan thermal switches - Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation. · Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode. · Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode. · Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem.
· Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode). · Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc. · Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
Turn the operating mode dial to self-clean, then manually hold in for about 20 seconds the light pin on the oven rim. The lock will eventually open after 20 or so seconds. Turn off the operating dial and the door will close.