Question about Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker

1 Answer

It has a rebuilt compressor and for about 3 weeks the freezer compartment is frosting up and I have to turn it off to defrost it. I purchased it used and the 90 day warranty is expired of course. Thank you. I can not find a model or serial number anywhere on this appliance.

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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My ice maker not making enough ice . I have already check the water. thank you


When an icemaker slows production, the problem is not the icemaker at all but the temps in the freezer warming up because of an airflow problem either in the freezer compartment evaporator coils or underneath the unit that being the condenser coils. (Fan not working or lint blockage)
Airflow problems in the freezer compartment are caused by the fan or the automatic defrost system not functioning properly so yu end up with an ice block / lots of frost in the freezer compartment on the back wall of the compartment.

Check for ice or large amounts of frost in the freezer compartment. If you note ice / excessive frost, unplug the unit, empty the freezer compartment and do a manual defrost by directing an external fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours. This will ensure the evaporator coils and the freezer compartment drain have thawed. While the manual defrost is in progress remove the rear fiberboard cover from the compressor access and check / clean the condensor coils and fan area.
After 2 hours clean up the excess water.. reassemble the rear cover and return the unit to NORMAL service. It should start making lots of ice in 4 to 6 hours. Here is the kicker... if there is an auomatic defrosting problem your icemaker will after 2 - 3 days again slow ice producion and ice will build up in the evaporator area. You will have to keep repeating the manual defrosting process every 3 to 4 days until the automatic defrost system is repaired.

There are 3 main components of the Automatic defrost system:
1. Defrost control
2. Defrost heater
3. Defrost thermostat or depending on type thermistor

Most of the time the problem is either the defrost control or the heater that fails and the unit stops defrosting.

Your parts can be found here:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/LG-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-LSC26905TT/3204/0165000

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Jun 23, 2011 | LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Mtb1953he fridge not cooling before it stopped fridge was making loud popping noise, i unplugged it then plugged it back in a day later to unthaw and fridge worked for 2 weeks now not working again. there...


It sounds like your defrost circuit is having a problem. Once frost builds up on the coil in the freezer compartment, air can no longer be pulled though the fins and circulated into the fresh food compartment. You notice things start to warm up. Eventually, the freezer suffers from the same lack of circulation and contents begin to soften and melt.

The defrost circuit consists of 4 main parts. They are: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator or sensor in series with the heater, 3) defrost timer and 4) wiring between the previous 3 parts.

The defrost heater is found in the compartment that houses the coiling coil. The defrost terminator or sensor is clipped or otherwise secured to be kept in physical contact with the cooling coil itself. The defrost timer may be located anywhere the manufacturer decides - a popular spot is in the toe space on the bottom of the fridge. The wiring, well, that is between all the parts. Chances are the wiring is fine - as would be the connectors to the individual components.

The defrost timer runs about 8 hours. About 20 - 30 minutes in that 8 hour period the defrost switch operates. This consists of switching power away from the compressor (so it shuts off) and to the defrost heater and defrost terminator. The heater is just a relatively small value heater that warms the compartment to melt any frost or ice from the cooling coil fins. It will be powered for up to 20 - 30 minutes by the timer or less - if the defrost terminator senses a rising temperature on the coil. This means that the heater will be on for either 20 - 30 minute OR until the defrost terminator gets warm enough.

If the timer is stuck - and never moves to the 20 - 30 defrost cycle, the frost on the coil will never melt away. If the timer does work, but the heating element has failed, the frost will never melt away. If the defrost terminator has failed open (preventing the power from getting to the heater), the will not work to melt the frost off the coil. If there is a loose, missing or damaged connection between the wiring harness and these components, it won't run as expected either.

Make sure there is continuity through the heater. When cold (below freezing) the terminator should also have continuity. Many are designed to open around 50 degrees F - so if you warm it up, you should see the continuity go away. The timer needs power to run, and will send power to either the compressor or defrost heater - never both at the same time. Check with power disconnected. Use care checking live circuits - and only work live circuits when you need to check for presence of power - otherwise, unplug!

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

Jan 05, 2011 | Maytag MTB1953HE Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

My 5 year old GE GSH22JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator recently stopped cooling. I noticed a build up of frost on the freezer, so unplugged the fridge and let the ice melt away. After this,...


The problem you describe is that your defrost circuit has failed. The fridge should stop the compressor periodically and turn on the defrost heater to melt the frost buildup. Since the frost in building up on your coils, the fan can't blow the cold air into the fridge compartment. It defrost is controlled by a module that turns on the heater. Most of these failures have to do with the defrost heating element burning out. It can be replaced by someone who has some mechanical ability.

The coil and heater is located in the back of the freezer compartment behind the panel in the back. You can obtain parts from appliance repair outlet or online like appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com.

Dec 07, 2010 | GE GSH22JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

2 Answers

Fridge and Freezer Not getting Cold


Your defrost system is at fault.
With this brand it is most likely the defrost thermostat and defrost heater located behind the back freezer panel.
Remove the shelves and bin,then remove the freezer panel. Defrost the ice manually.
Replace the thermostat and heater assembly.

Apr 27, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Poor cooling in the freezer compartment


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Mar 29, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a 20 year old sub-zero refrigerator. For the last two weeks the refrigerator is so cold that everything is freezing. If I turn down the thermostat the freezer warms up.


It sounds like the freezer side is losing its capacity......All cooling done on the refrigerator side is done by air flow of the fan in the freezer compartment by the evaporator coils(aluminum fins looks like a radiator)
You might want to pull the back panel of the freezer section and look at it.
Normally it is fully frosted when running(whitish snow covering on evaporator) If it is only partially frosted it has a freon leak or compressor problem. If it is engulfed in frost and there is no air flow possible through it your defrost system has failed.My guess is it is partially frosted and you have a freon leak.

Also check the fan by the compressor is running on the outside and the condensor coils on the outside on the bottom are clean.( fan runs when compressor runs)

A

Jan 14, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS266ZDSB Side by Side...

1 Answer

Freezer & fridge warms up on average every 6-8 weeks. Remedy turn off and leave 24 plus hours with doors open. On turning on the fridge and freezer cool down again to operating temperature....


Good day,
That's too long a period, for a normal. defrost system failure.
You'll have to wait until it quits, then remove the rear panel and look for ice (not frost) building up somewhere in the freezer compartment.
I have solved similar problems on this model, by replacing the defrost thermostat with a GE 60 degree thermostat, and a WR9X330 GE 6 hour defrost timer to get this model to defrost completely.

It's also possible that the refrigerant charge is slightly low, causing the defrost thermostat not to reach a cold enough temperature to perform a good defrost cycle. (building ice over a long period of time).

Make sure Freon 12 was used when replacing the compressor.
Some substitutes caused the evaporator coil to act as if it was
slightly low on charge.

Nov 08, 2009 | Westinghouse Refrigerators

2 Answers

Our side by side side by model was purchased in 2002 and has been problem free. Starting about two weeks ago following a party, there has been a continual frost build-up in the freezer. I have removed...


You have a bad freezer door gasket!! it's letting moisture seep into the freezer and once the moisture hits the extream cold it turns to ice crystals.The freezer is designed to get as cold as 0 degrees and the ice cubes stay in cube form as long as the temp is below 32 degrees so the ice cubes didn't make a difference.You can try and CLEAN the contact surfaces of the gasket and freezer real good this usually works,if the gasket is damaged you will need to replace it.

Sep 20, 2009 | Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refridg. compartment warm


You may have a problem other than in the refrigerator compartment.
I am in the U.S.A. and am unfamiliar with some of the brands posted on this forum. However designs of refrigerator freezer combinations have a basic relationship. Check your freezer compartment for a frost sign on the back wall. If frost is present on the back wall a defrost problem is evident. This type of problem can be related to a defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat. If you can located the defrost timer and rotate the dial clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one click. This will put the refrigerator into the defrost mode. After a time event of 18-22 minutes the compressor should restart. After 25 minute if it does not start advance the timer dial SLOWLY one more time and the compressor should start.

May 26, 2008 | Goldstar Refrigerators

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