Question about Echo 21.2 CC Shafted Hedge Trimmer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Cut two separate pieces of string, about 7 ft. each.
Stick the end of the line in the hole on the inside of spool.
Wind clockwise onto spool, putting the line that is closest to the ground on first.
Once you have winded this piece on, lock the last 4 inches of line through the slits on spool.
Repeat process for second piece of line, locking the last 4 inches in slot opposite the other locked in piece.
Put the spool on the trimmer, feeding the end of lines through either hole on trimmer.
Before you push the spool all the way on, pull the strings out of the locked position.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
SOURCE: Echo Weed Eater bogs down.
Echo carbs have a little black plastic plug covering the High speed adj screw..CA air pulotion control bs..So get that little black blug out and give the screw a little turn open and u should be good to go..It worked for me..on a PBL 251 blower..My Echo weed wacker has the carb also..Go to Echos site and download the parts break down for your unit and look at the carb page..You will see the plug and HS,screw..happing wacking and blowing
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
you can take the screen out altogether-ive done that for almost 20 years.That is probably your problem.You can also change the fuel filter in the gas tank.There is usually enuf slack in the gas line in the tank that you can get the filter to the gas tank opening and hold it w your fingers or pliers and remove it.Be careful with pliers to not gouge fuel line and just pull filter firmly off fuel line.There may be a tiny metal ring that helps hold fuel filter on to fuel line.Try to kind of hold it in place as you pull filter out of fuel line.If you lose it its not a big deal.Most filters fit snug onto a fuel line anyway.-A good way to get the filter to the mouth of the gas tank to work on is to empty all the gas and take a metal clothes hanger and bend it so you get a little hook in it and kinda "fish" for the fuel line w filter attatched.Within minutes you'll figure it out and get the filter up to the mouth of the gas tank where you can work on it.If you dont have enuf slack to work you can disconnect the fuel line at the carb and pull yourself a little slack.Dont go more than about 1/2 -3/4 inch though.----along w the muffler screen(located behind plate that is attatched to muffler with 3 small screws)(check plate itself for ability for air to pass thru-can clean it out with tiny screwdriver)-you can also take entire muffler off(two allen screws)that reveals a look at port where all the exaust comes from.If that area is choked with carbon you'll have a problem.Some weedeatwers get it bad some dont.So...check clean or remove(screens clog up fast) muffler screen located under plate thats attatched to muffler-----while plate is off check it for carbon buildup(you can hold up to the sun and see if sunlight goes thru it-that will tell you)-------take muffler off and look at exaust port(if dirty scrape carbon carefully out-turn machine upside down,tap with something,etc...no biggy)-----fuel filter.Also check air filter though probably not your problem unless its totally caked with stuff or getting soaking wet somehow.The only two main other things would be a plug or the thing attatched to one of the gas lines called a vent-just a little thing that pops on to the end of a line.I dont think the air filter ,vent,or plug is your problem-especially the vent or air filter.Its probably exaust related or fuel filter.---make sure youre gas mixture is right and make sure the gas isnt real old.---Ive had echos for 20 years-hope it wasnt too much to digest.Its all simple really-was just tryin to be descriptive to help u as much as possible.good luck
Posted on Jun 29, 2010
SOURCE: .adjustments for echo weed eater
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jul 17, 2011
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