Question about Maytag Dependable Care LAT9706
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem. and I did the suggestion dated 9/26/06. Too another piece of hose and attached it to the water level switch and blew into it. and the machine began aggitating. My question is... DO I replace the hose?? or switch?? Now that I have purchased a new machine. I find a solution, Oh well. thanks df
Posted on Mar 03, 2007
SOURCE: Washer water overflow.
i am a recently retired engineer of 20 years and this sounds like a blockage to start with, when you remove the lid you will find a round disc like object (pressure switch) with a thin pipe coming from it going down to the bottom end of the machine, this pipe as either come off or is blocked somewhere. drain the machine totally, clear out the pipes, make sure there are no damaged parts to the pipes, then make sure all are fitted properly, start the machine off again and watch for water level shutting off near the bottom of the door, start with the above, if this doesn't cover the fault there may be an issue with the timer or electrical fault elsewhere/? hope this helps, if so rate me please, thank you
Posted on Sep 13, 2007
SOURCE: Maytag lse7806ace
After removing the power (easist was to shut breaker off), then replaced fuse just inside upper front left cover area by way of 2 white screws on bottom front panel. Clips secure the top into the horizontial lid panel (which you will also have to remove later if fuse keeps blowing) That worked for a coupe weeks as long as the Cycle Selector dial was always pushed in when you opened/closed the washer lid. Then the the problem returned. Only way out was to partially remove the unit from the wall and remove the lid assembly, which was much easier than first thought. Pictures attached. Tools needed are Phillips screwdriver and Nut drivers to remove the horizontial lid/panel from above the washer tub, and below the timer panel/dryer. Didn't need to remove the angled cover below dryer as Washer Door lid assembly is wholly below. Just push the dryer toward the rear, then remove two larger nuts from top left and top right corners. No nuts at rear, just clips that slide in/out. This allows lid cover to be pulled straight out (I had to remove the overflow tube on front right of tub, and one semi-rusted nut-driven screw from the Hot/Cold filler plate which is at the rear of the lid cover. That will make it easier to manipulate the cover and release the 4-pin plastic connector shown in pictures at the left rear corner. Then the entire cover/lid slides out easily as you may have to push the dryer top back to ease it out. Then flip it over and replace the switch and slide the 4 wire connector back under the plastic trip. and reverse the un-install. 4-pin connector is flat-keyed on one side, but it is tight to get to. My OEM part even included a new fuse (19.95 + shipping) Unit is now working fine for last 2 weeks.
Posted on Feb 01, 2008
the possibility of it being the timer is most likely..as the rest of the cycles remain ok.. if you require a timer,you can get one here at this link..(click the link here) http://www.easyapplianceparts.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=HAV4657EWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1
please be aware that you will need the machine serial number in order for them to issue you with the correct part/s you will require.. parts are cross referenced with the serial number.
these diagrams will also enlarge in order for you to maintain your machine by yourself at little but the cost of the parts required... but please DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR YOURSELF if you think you may not have the technical know how to follow these technical drawings..hope this helps
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
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