Question about Marklin Toys

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Hi, I have a Marklin Ho Delta German locomotive. The locomotive is making a chirping sound when placed on track. The tracks are clean. I placed this train set on ebay last week and it sold. I went to pack it for shipping and set up the train to ensure it is working fine. Now it is making this chirping like noise and I need to fix it ASAP as I need to ship it to the buyer. Please help! Many thanks, Awilda

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  • venus55564 Sep 27, 2009

    The Marklin locomotive train when placed on track, goes around the track and seems like it wants to stop, BUT does not stop. It moves in a resistance motion.

    I need a solution for this ASAP, I placed this set on ebay and when I set it up prior to packing for shipping I now have this problem.

    thanks,
    Awilda

  • venus55564 Sep 27, 2009

    Hi, I tried your recommendation but it is still not running properly.

  • venus55564 Sep 27, 2009

    Hi I have the Delta Marklin made in Germany style.

  • venus55564 Sep 27, 2009

    My train is over 20 years old and was not listed in the information just recieved. That will be all for now. Appreciate your time and effort. Have a great day. Many thanks for the advice. Awilda

  • venus55564 Sep 27, 2009

    The solution was based on a train different from mine. My train set is over 20 years old. Not as modern as the current ones. Thank you, for your time and efforts. You have provided excellent customer skills and your efforts are greatly appreciated. Have a nice day! Awilda

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If the noise is coming without the locomotive running on tracks.then its a power issue.its getting short internally.but if its getting this chirping sound only while the train is running.and as per you if the tracks are clear and clean.apply oil on the tracks and the base of locomotive tires.do not apply too much .but make it fluent and let it remain for some time on the tires and tracks then check out. ------------------- this will help. thanks.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

  • charlymonty Sep 27, 2009
  • charlymonty Sep 27, 2009

    Improving Marklin Multi-Unit Wiring
    Marklin wires together the engines in their multi-locomotive sets in one of two ways:



    • Two GM EMD F7-A units are directly wired together and coupled permanently to each other. Examples are the 8819 Alaska A-B-A set (see photo) and the 8832 Union Pacific A-B-A set.

    • Two German express train units are placed on either side of any number of intermediate cars, the wiring carried through the cars and their couplers. Examples are the 8871 ICE set and the 8873 TEE set.
    Regardless of the configuration, the idea is to have two locomotives wired in parallel so that one is never running while ther other is not. Marklin also includes diodes (which allow current to run only in one direction) in the circuitry such that the power pickup is only made by the forward unit. This makes block operations (where two or more sections of track are isolated from one-another) easier and safer, preventing derailing and short-circuits.
    Unfortunately, the diodes cause two problems. First of all, a single diode causes a voltage drop of 0.6 volts. Marklin uses four diodes in each pair of F7 units, two per powered unit. There are eight diodes in the 8871 ICE and 8873 TEE, two for the motor, and two for the directional lighting in each unit. That's a voltage drop of 1.2 volts for the motors; at full throttle, that means only 6.8 volts (85% of maximum) is actually powering the locomotives. Secondly, it means that at any given time, two locomotives are only getting the benefit of the power pickup of one unit. A little bit of dirt on the track will stop a multi-locomotive train as easily as it will stop a single unit.
    The Marklin 8871 ICE and 8873 TEE sets suffer from an additional problem. Since cars and couplers carry the current between the powered units, the connection (and therefore the performance of the train) can be sporadic, especially around tight curves. Additional intermediate cars can also add resistance to the whole system, further reducing performance (see Improving Locomotive Power Pickup for additional ICE tips). If you detach one of the powered units from the train, you'll notice it only goes forward; change the direction on your transformer, and it won't move at all. This is, of course, what happens when the connections between the two powered units fail - the whole train stops.
    The solution is to eliminate the diodes, which will improve performance and allow both units to pickup power simultaneously, essentially eliminating stalls and erratic running. After the following procedure, you'll find details on wiring two separate units to one-another.
    You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and some fine-gauge wire.




    1. Start by removing the shells from the locomotives.If you're working on the Marklin 8819 or 8832, you'll need to be careful of the wires poking through the rear windows of the A units. Also, be gentle with the permanent couplers on the F7 units; while they're relatively sturdy, the pins in the trucks that hold them break easily.



    2. locations of the diodes in the 8819 Alaska F7 set (the 8832 Union Pacific is the same).You don't need to remove the diodes; only bypass them with a short length of fine wire. You'll notice that I've already done this to one of the diodes in the photo (see the blue wire); you'll want to do this for both diodes. Since electricity follows the easiest path through a circuit, this effectively bypasses the diodes, and eliminates their drain on the power.

      locations of the diodes in one of the powered units of the 8871 ICE set (the 8873 TEE set is similar).
      You'll notice that two of the diodes in the photo already have pieces of yellow wire soldered to the diode leads. The other two diodes (located in the front of the locomotive) are for the directional lighting, and should not be bypassed.
      Thanks to Graham Jones, ZClub(GB), for this diagram showing the diode locations on TEE and ICE units.



    3. You'll want to use very thin, multi-stranded (not solid), copper wire. If the wire is too thick, too long, or not flexible enough, it will take too much room, and you won't be able to put the shell back on.In my opinion, the best type of wire to use is phonograph needle wire (it connects the needle to the record player base); it's soft, flexible, and very thin. You should be able to find it at a neighborhood electronics store or vintage stereo repair shop. You can also use speaker winding wire, which is even thinner, albeit more fragile, than photograph needle wire.
      Start by cutting a 1/2" to 3/4"-long piece of wire, and stripping the ends. Using a soldering iron with a fine point, carefully -- and briefly -- melt the solder at one end of the diode, and put one end the wire in place with a pair of tweezers. Then, briefly melt the solder at the other end of the diode, and use the tweezers to connect the other end of the wire. You shouldn't need to add any more solder, but if you do, use a tiny bit of .040" diameter rosin 5-core solder.
      Your work should look something like the photos, above.



    4. Put the shells back on the locomotives, and give them a spin. You should notice two things: First, the locomotive should move a bit faster. Second (for the F7 units), if you lift either end up (with the throttle still applied), they will both still run; in other words, both units are picking up power simultaneously, which will make them much less susceptible to dirty track.For the 8871 ICE and 8873 TEE units, you'll notice now that the powered units run in both directions, even when they're not connected to the train. Likewise, both units pick up power simultaneously, and are no longer susceptible to sporadic connections in the intermediate cars.






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Check the wheels and rail. The pins get dry and and need lubrication

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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