I have a vibe amp and am looking to re-solder 2 burnt out resistors onj the pcb board, i cant slide it out?? there are 2 screws which i have undone which are in a rail, but still wont slide out??

Tools Needed: Philips, torx bits, soldering iron, solderbr>

Steps to Fix:
1. Open sunglass holder
2. Remove screw holding console to ceiling
3. Grip and pull down on the front (windshield-end) of the console. It will take a bit of pressure for the clips to release.
4. Unplug electrical harnesses
5. Ensure the you still have 2 metal clips attached. If not, the missing one will be laying in/next to the clip-hole
6. Remove the 3 Torx screws holding the display/board
7. Unclip the plasic cover from the board. Be careful. They break easily
8. Locate the '510' resistors and look for disconnection. Mine was very easy to see.
9. Press down resistor and solder broken end. I chose to solder both ends of both 510s to make sure I won't be back in there.
10. Reassemble. It may be worth testing before you snap the clips back into place.
Overall its a VERY easy fix that can be done by just about anyone.
20 minutes & $.10 of solder is better than the $900 that Toyota wants.

Could bea cold solder joint that is triggering this. Cold solder joints can be problems when either shock, vibration or larger temperature variations occur. Go buy a soldering iron, flux and some solder. You should be able to get all of that for 20 dollars. Take the cover off and reflow all of the joints on the output stages. Resistors, capactiros, transistors and run through the power supply as well just to make sure those are good. No more that 2 to 3 seconds per joint to reduce the risk of lifting a pad or a trace.

Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.

Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.
The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.

A service manual for a similar model is available at following link, refer to power supply section:-
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/35375/kef_psw2000.html

To replace,
1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.
2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)
3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.
4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.
Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.
The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track.
Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.

The blower resistors have gone bad and needs to be replaced.

The 2002 Nissan Sentra blower motor resistor is located near the blower motor itself, which can be found under the dashboard, on the passenger side of the car.

To access it, you have to remove the glove compartment and the isolation panel that covers the bottom of the blower. Do the following steps:

1. first, locate and open the glove compartment on the passenger side;
2. remove the four upper screws and slide the door lock bracket out;
3. pull out the two pins at the inner bottom corners of the compartment;
4. take out the glove compartment assembly;
5. remove the two screws retaining the isolation panel and slide the later out.

Looking under the dashboard, you can now see the blower motor and, on its left side, near the firewall, the resistor block brown connector.

To take out the blower motor resistor:

1. remove the white plastic bracket that faces it;
2. unplug the brown connector;
3. remove the two screws on the resistor's socket;
4. pull the resistor block out.

The resistor block is actually a PCB ("Printed Circuit Board"). The traces printed on this board have different electrical resistance, and are used by the control assembly to vary the speed of the blower fan.

I believe Auto Zone or Parts Source has the blower resistor you need. Good luck

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Our shredder quit running while in use. Staples said itwould probably need a new circuit board. Once I got inside I found a 5 amp fusesoldered to the circuit board. Yes, it was blown. I jumped it and the machineworked. I unsoldered the fuse and soldered in two wires that I ran through ahole I drilled in the top of the machine. I took a 5 amp automotive fuse(bayonet style) and drilled a small hole through each bayonet. I then threadedthe two wires through the two holes on the fuse and wrapped them around,instead of soldering, for easy future replacement. Then I wrapped the fuse withelectric tape for safety and taped the fuse flat to the top of the machine.Voila! A flawed Chinese product is made usable! Dan Phelps [email protected]

Hi...there,
That's mean you got a busted backlight inverter, Dude! Replaced a new one or repaired it. Good lucks!

I'm in the same fix. I learnt that a new pcb is £68 so had the pcb repaired but after the machine has warmed up it now cuts in and out. Like you, I haven't been able to locate a wiring diagram so am trying a last minute lash-up before binning the machine:
A friend suggested that since we all seem to only operate the cleaner on full power I should connect the on/off switch direct to the motor bypassing the rheostat and the pcb as in old fashioned machines.

SYMPTOM: No Display.
COUNTERMEASURE: Re-solder the following components on PCB X34-415:
R43, R44, R46, R47, R48, R49, R50, R51, R55, and R57


They all say 2r7 on them

NEC is famous for under rating it seems there sets. Not sayying that the sets are not good but I've seen hundreds of NEC with what looks like over heating. I too hace seen several power supply problems and it comes to mind that a small choke that looks like a small resistor with wire wrapped around it has been the problem several times as you must also take out the parts that looks burnt and clean the area and take off all the overheated solder and clean up the pcb and reinstall and resolder with new solder if you want to not have intermittant connctions again. Oh almost forgot that these coils are on the output of the power supplys and make sure you check all the caps as well in the output of the power supplys as well as in the sweep supply as this can cause your sort of problem as well.. Good Luck PS if a resistor looks burnt they are so cheap you should replace it as resistors that look or have been overheated can and will breakdown under power or a load.