Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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I had a same problem

How do I troubleshoot if the issue with lid switch. I read the instructions but not sure how to pypass the lid. Please help.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.



See the Whirlpool / Kenmore PDF document on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers.

There are sections on how to remove the cabinet and how to jumper the Lid Switch. Basically, you jumper the two outside pins with a short piece of insulated wire.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Make sure you check all your drain hoses. Make sure the pump is not clogged up. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging. I want to thank you for reading and I hope this helps you

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My washer stops in the middle of the cycle, it washes but stops before draining the water to go into the spin rinse cycle. Kenmore nodle 110 serial # ce1402638 Please asvise.


This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. I will need a more accurate model number to confirm (located under the washer lid along the tub rim). "110" is only the beginning prefix of the model number, which identifies the manufacturer. I will need the remaining numbers to determine how the washer is configured.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.

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This is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.

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This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

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The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple and inexpensive repair. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.

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This is a symptom of a defective lid switch. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Please post back with your number if you need assistance in determing part numbers. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a very simple repair that doesn't cost a lot. If you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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This is a very simple and inexpensive repair. However, if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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