Moving electric dryer w/ 4 wire receptacle and need to run 220v 30amp circuit to it. I have several possible routes to the main, the shortest- about 30' isthe most difficult to ''thread'' , the easy way is maybe 70'. 2 questions : 1. what wire AWG does code call for either length run? 2. If 10/3 is needed, can one circuit using double run of 12/2AWG safely provide the same 220V service as single run of 10/3AWG to that 4 wire receptacle?
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Re: 2 12/2AWG = 1 10/3AWG
Yes, with a double run of 12-2w/ground you'll end up with 2pairs of 12 for your 2 hot phases(you will need to mark one pair red to substantiate the 2 different phases) and each 12 gauge wire will carry 20 amp each alone, then you'll have 2 pairs of 12 with white insulation white for neutral is fine but the other pair for the safety ground will need to be marked or painted green where ever visible per N.E.C. i.e. main panel or dryer receptacle or hardwired into the unit itself,use 10-3w/ground its cheaper in the long run and you dont have to run a doubleheader
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Some of these numbers don't make sense? I have Never heard of 440v and 220v in a residential application, they are two different systems, 480 volt is typically 3 phase power, and 240v is typically single phase, more in likely you have a 200- 400 amp main service, and a 100- 200 amp secondary service for the welder, that can't be 110 @ 200 amps? I would need more info, and pictures of actual nameplates of the equipment, and then I could advise a safe NEC electrical code answer...
I assume it runs and this is from that stance. If it doesn't the motor has to be checked and the power coming in. In fact the dryer can run and still not have the correct power to opperate the heater.
Assuming you have a volt meter and know how to use it properly.
These are the steps that the power and machine have to take to operate properly
A. If the dryer has all of these things it has to be heating and an air
flow problem (kinked or dirty dryer duck, motor fan clogged with lint,
vent flapper not opening...) is suspect.
B. ELECTRICAL 1. power is correct (USA 220V across line and 115v to ground/neut) 2 hot lines with potential between them and a neutral and possible a ground 2 Door switch is closed 3 Timer switch closes and ready s power to heating element through centrifugal switch in the motor circuit after the motor is running. 4 the heating element is assumed to be good and have 220v at this point. Checking for voltage at the element will assure all before are ok and at least allowing the heater to work. 5 the heating element is controlled by 1 or more thermostats and a safety thermostat. If either of these switches do not close when the dryer is "cool" they are bad. NOTE some dryers could ahve 3 wire thermostats. These can read closed on one set and open on the other. And this is how they should be if good. But tracing the wire diagram will tell which set is closed and when. 6 if you have power, the timer contacts to the motor and the heater (separate circuits usually)are "closed", the motor runs, the cent switch "closes", the temperature operating thermostats are closed, and the heating element is good you have to have heat.
1 Check for 220V power into the dryer. If not check breakers and turn off and on several time pushing them firmly. If this is ok and 220V present step 1 is done.
Check to ensure you have 220v A/C to the dryer.
The dryer will run on 110v but will not heat.
Ck. the dryer cord where it connects to the dryer.
Some times one of the terminals on the cord may have burned up due to a bad connection.
Electric dryers are not sold with power cords since there are several different types of 220V outlets.
You may have a bad house fuse, Circuit breaker or 220V outlet.
I would say no. I have never heard of a 220V washing machine, as a washing machine has no need for 220V. In any case though you would need to get the appropriate wire, cord and outlet and install a separate circuit for the washing machine.
Hey steve. do you really need 240 volts for 120 v. circuits. the reason you have to have an adaptor plug is because on your 220 volt plug in , 2 of tthose prongs are hot and 1 is ground. for safety you need to get a plug adapter ( a regular 120 volt plug end ) run a ground from adapter to ground on 220 adapter. same with nuetral. you also need to ground your generator. there is usaully a ground lug on the bottom of the gen. Another way. if you dont really need 220 v. is to use both 120v. recepticals on gen. Run 2 chords to tranf. switch. and hard wire it in to switch. another way i did mine . when i lost power in this hurricane. i ran two # 10 chords from my 2 120v. recept on my gen to my breaker panel. when you do this you have to pull the service meter, if you dont when power comes back on it would backfeed through your gen.then i turn all my 220v. breakers i was able to run lights ,ciling fans, freezer, ice box,washing machine and gas dryer , tv's computors etc. . but to do this, you probably need someone that knows what they are doin.
Dryers require a 40A circuit breaker to handle the current. According to Ohms Law: Watts = Volts * Amps. Therefore, you require a power capacity of 220V * 40A in order to safely run the dryer, which is 8800 Watts. This means your generator does not have enough capacity to run the dryer. If we consider the full power of your generator at 6500 Watts, this only allows for 29.5A, which is not enough to run your dryer.
If it WAS possible, you would need to ensure that you ran a 30A heavy extension cord with the correct 220V plugs and receptacles on the end. This would require at least 10gauge 3-conductor wire, which is quite expensive.
However, that point is moot, since your generator does not have the capacity to run your dryer. You could try it, but I rather suspect that the dryer will trip the 30A breaker on the genset circuit. If you do try it, make sure you run a 10-gauge, 30A extension cord or you could have a fire.
You will typically need a 40 amp 220V circuit for this ( check with local building inspectors). You will need to run some hefty wire probably #8 three wire (again check) and install the type of plug receptacle that is on the dryer cord.
Inside the breaker box you will need a dual breaker 220V breaker rated at 40 amps. The wire coming into the breaker box will need to be clamped in place with appropriately sized wire cable clamp where the enter the box through a knockout- available at any hardware store.
Now the big question- why are you switching to electrical? Gas is pretty much half as expensive as electricy and will dry the clothes faster (usually gas dryers generate more heat than electrical ones). Just wondering..
If your dryer came with a 4-prong plug, do not change it. For the very reasons you quoted with the article, you may screw up the 110v accessories required of your appliance (like the clock or digital display). It is best to change the household outlet to a 4-prong type. Just make sure your wiring is correct. You will need a neutral on the 4th leg, which means you will probably have to run new wiring from the outlet to the distribution panel.