Question about Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range

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Lower heating is not working

My wife turned on oven knob and than left oven door open.After that the lower heating in our Hotpoint stove is not working.
The model # RGB745WEA2WW
Serial # HV237178P

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Replace the igniter even if it "appears" to be working. Bright red isnt hot enough. It has to be bright white. Goodluck...

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi,

Just a guess, its possible to have a weak ignitor. How old is the unit? What the model number as the number above is incorrect, I think thats from the control panel, look around the door frame for the correct number, usually the lower section. Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

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I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.

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HI, seen this before with the ge/hotpoint elec. ovens i worked on when i did apartment maintenance. One could be a bad control switch(knob u turn to turn on oven).turn on broiler and see if it comes on,if it does not that could be it.If it comes on it u might have to replace lower element,but could still be control switch not working for that section.But it will one or the other.

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IF THIS IS A NEW STOVE THERE IS A VALVE IF YOU PULL OUT THE LOWER DRAWER AND LOOK WITH A FLASH LIGHT YOU WILL SEE A VALVE AT THE REAR OF THE STOVEAT THE LOWER LEFT OF THE VALVE THERE IS A TINY LITTLE HANDLE WHICH OPENS THE GAS TO THE OVEN FLIP THE LITTLE LEVER SO IT IS IN THE OPEN POSSITION, THERE ARE NO MARKS SAYING OPEN OR CLOSED AND THE LEVER IS VERY HARD TO SEE
TRY THIS AND SEE IF THE OVEN STARTS WORKING

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Reinsert hinges one at a time, noting there is a small "tooth" or "gap" on each hinge.


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After the lock indicator light goes out, move the door lock lever to the left. The oven door can now be opened. Turn the selector and temperature knobs from clean to off AFTER THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED. If the temperature knob is turned to off BEFORE the door is unlocked, the door will not open. Forcing the lock will damage the lock mechanism. If this should happen, return the temperature knob back to CLEAN, unlock the door, THEN turn the temperature knob off. Source(s): Jenn-Air Grill Range with Self Cleaning Radiant Bake and Convection Oven models S136, S156, S161

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two things---when you open the oven door do you see a button on the right or left side?if so thats a door switch and if its bad you will get no voltage to the element.the next thing is your hi limit is bad.this is a sensor that monitors the temp of the oven and if its bad you wont get any heat.some hi limits reset themselves others you have to manually reset them.let me know.

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