Question about Frigidaire FTF530FS Front Load Washer

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Frigidaire Front Load washing machine drum will not turn.

Frigidaire FTF530FS Front Load Washing machine drum will not turn. Fills with water and motor tries to turn drum but stops with a clunk after a very slight movement then tries to trun the other direction with the same result. I undid the belt and the motor turns freely but not the drum. The pump drains the tub if I advance the dial manually. Bearing problem?

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  • 2 more comments 
  • bazenji Sep 27, 2009

    I can't see anything causing the binding in the tub and did not hear any loud noises during previous wash cycles, that said, I turned on the washer and left home when the washer quit working.

    I can move the tub about an inch if I put a lot of elbow into it but it
    then snaps back to the same position that it started from when I release it.

    Would I be able to see more by taking the rubber door boot/seal out? Looking at an online parts manual I see that the bearing in not a replaceable part, they only sell the rear tub assembly.

  • bazenji Sep 27, 2009


    Sep 27, 2009
    - I can't
    see anything causing the binding in the tub and did not hear any loud
    noises during previous wash cycles, that said, I turned on the washer
    and left home when the washer quit working.

    I can move the tub about an inch if I put a lot of elbow into it but it
    then snaps back to the same position that it started from when I release it.

    Would
    I be able to see more by taking the rubber door boot/seal out? Looking
    at an online parts manual I see that the bearing in not a replaceable
    part, they only sell the rear tub assembly.


  • bazenji Sep 27, 2009

    Mystery solved... probably. I pulled the drain boot from the tub and I am not seeing the filter sleeve. I was in there a few days ago because the tub wasn't draining and I found the filter clogged up with a big fur ball (I have dogs). I guess taking the tub apart is a big job? Know where I can get a step by step procedure for taking the tub apart to try and find the missing filter sleeve?

  • bazenji Sep 27, 2009

    Thanks for all the great advice, I especially appreciate the step-by-step process for taking the tub out of the washer. I'm very disappointed in the engineering of the washer 1)why is it constructed so that the filter can float into the cheese grater-like surface of the tub 2)why the bolts to take the tub apart don't face to the rear where they can be accessed without taking the tub completely out...

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  • 220 Answers

Possibly a bad bearing but to get to that point you would have heard a noise similar to an air plane taking off in your laundry room,if you haven't heard such a noise try this,with a flashlight look around inside the drum of the washer,what your looking for is something that may have dropped into one of the holes,a screw.a nail,a piece of wire possibly even an article of clothing that got around the seal in the front of the tub,look around the front edge of the tub for the latter,the motor has an amp and tach read through the main control so if it reads anything that gives much resistance it will stop and try turning the other way.
 On the other hand if you have neighbors coming out into their yards looking for crashing planes every time you do laundry you probably have a locked or frozen bearing,and thats not a job you want to tackle yourself.But it wouldn't hurt to check with Frigidaire on the warranty for the latter.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • TomZS Sep 27, 2009

    If the tub snaps back to it's original position I still tend to believe something is holding it,you can try removing the bottom panel and removing the hose from the bottom of the tub because if something is sticking down through the tub this is the most likely spot for it to lodge but unplug the washer and have several towels handy there is a motor control down there to the left rear you don't want getting wet,and ther is always water left in that area,there is also a plastic trap mounted in the hose under the sump. 


  • TomZS Sep 27, 2009

    And yes you have to replace the whole outer tub to change the bearing,trust me it ain't fun.Takes 2-3 hours straight through,if you know what to do.


  • TomZS Sep 27, 2009

    Removing the door boot doesn't give you a whole lot more access.


  • TomZS Sep 27, 2009

    Oooo that is a big job here are directions for replacing the bearing,you are not going totally that far but it tells you how to get it apart...


    1. Bring Band-Aids, Frigidaire seems to leave many sharp edges!! Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel.

    2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight.

    3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor.

    4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).

    5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor  be sure to remove those first. 

    6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 

    7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood.

    8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!

    9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports.

    10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.

    11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half.Mark the tubs to make putting it back together easier 

    12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.

    Assembly.

    13. Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports.

    14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.

    15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.

    16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly.

    17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly.

    18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Some boots were glued in place,Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.

    19. Put on back and top.

    20. Run load, check for leaks.The back panel is structural and should be on for a test run. 
     

    _________________________________________________________________________________________

    Bearing and Seal notes:



    Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....


    After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying. 

    The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves. 

     
    134885300 is the part number for the filter it's a $2 part.look through the holes inside and see if you can spot where it's stuck maybe you can hook it with a piece of wire and work it back down and out.

  • TomZS Sep 27, 2009

    If you call around it will probably cost you about $200 to have someone do this for you.It's not an easy job.


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