Question about Frigidaire FGF337BC Gas Kitchen Range

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Oven cuts off a code comes up.i replaced main time and oven controle bourd.

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  • muebe May 11, 2010

    what is the code? Does the oven igniter come on? Burner come on?

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If you replaced the control,Check the oven sensor it slides in through the back wall of the oven,looks like a chrome rod sticking out of the wall with a crimped end.
If you have an ohm meter the sensor should ohm out at around 1075 at room temperature(70°F) give or take 25 ohms.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi I need a list of error codes for an Angelo Po Combi oven. Model number is FCV101EDS


F0 - No Alarm Signal

The main control board in your oven has failed to communicate with the alarm. This is most likely a fault with the control board itself, which may need replacing.

F1 - Door Not Locking

If there is an issue with the door lock in your appliance you may see this error code. Check the door lock and the wiring and connections to it to get to the cause of the fault

F2 - Door Not Unlocking

The opposite fault to the above, this fault indicates your oven door won't unlock. Once again you'll need to check the door lock mechanism and its wiring and connections. This fault could also be down to the oven thermostat as this could be giving an incorrect temperature reading, preventing the door lock from being released.

F3 - Self Test Error

Turn off your appliance, unplug it for five minutes or so and plug it back in again. Doing so should clear the F3 error code. Easy as that!. If it does not clear the problem you are likely to have a fault so see the links to our diagnosis videos below.

F4 - Temperature Sensor Fault

If you see this error code you'll need to check your temperature sensor and the wiring and connections between the sensor and the main control board. You may need to replace the sensor.

F5 - Control Board Error

This fault suggests a problem has developed with the main electronic control board in your AEG oven. It may need replacing to bring your machine back to full working order again.

F7 - Mains Supply Issue

You'll see this fault if your oven has detected a problem with the power coming into it. This could mean your appliance has been wired in incorrectly. You'll need to check the mains supply connection to your oven to get to the bottom of this error code.

F8 - Power Supply Issue to Control Board

The main control board is not receiving power as it should. Check the wiring and connections to it. If all the connections are fine, you'll possibly need to replace the control board.

F9 - Processor Auto Resetting

As with error F3, turning off and unplugging your appliance for five minutes before plugging it back should reset and fix this fault code.

Oct 24, 2016 | Combi Ovens

1 Answer

Model 790.47912600 keeps shutting off . It doesn't trip the breaker ,just cuts off and will come back on


Check the main board for a bad solder joint at one of the relays. Repair or replace as needed.

Jun 09, 2014 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

My microwave isnt working no display have changed fuse but still no sign of life


First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
but can not program unit, Touchpad dead If you have a stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.
If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.
God bless you
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Apr 02, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Panasonic microwave nn a554w


First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
If you have a stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.
If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.
Rewmember use the DVOM
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Apr 02, 2013 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

GE microwave oven not working


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

Touchpad dead If you have a stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.
If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.
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Oct 10, 2012 | GE SpaceMaker Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

F3 fault code on fisher & paykel wall oven.


hELLO THERE:
on these ovens the f-3 can sometime be incorporated with the f-4 error code also so here is the code and the things to look for both ok ?
F3 - F4 Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of:
· contamination on terminals
· pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit
· cold solder joint on control. · Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control.
· Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F).
· Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit.
· Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.

Jul 14, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel Ovens

1 Answer

F7 keep popping up on my wall oven


The fault code is for the ERC The ERC electronic Range Control has failed. If shutting off the breaker for at least 5 minutes does not clear the code you will need to replace the erc. This is the main control located behind the clock assembly. This is easy to replace but usually not to inexpensive. Enter your complete model # at www.appliancehelponline.com and you can pull up diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. All parts come with installation instructions.

May 12, 2010 | Kenmore 42161 / 42169 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I have a 24" single gas wall oven model JGRP17VEW4BB and it is displaying an F7 error code and the time. I've tried shutting off the power but it comes back right away. Do you know what part I will need...


HI. This is a basic communication issue that will concern, either the control board, or touch/Key pad assembly. Normally, this will produce a stuck key, which will cause one of the power relays to become suspended.

Determine if The problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:

1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting the key pad Ribbon Cable from control(main), and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

NOTE_ Some models incorporate the touch/Key pad into the ERC as a single assembly(Whole device), in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).

Jan 17, 2010 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven thermostat not cutting out


If the temperarure cannot be controlled, then I am afraid the only solution is to replace the main oven thermostat.
Hope this nhelps.

Dec 20, 2009 | Hotpoint Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Competence B1180, it cuts out after irregular periods of time, although sometimes it may even complete a cooking cycle, if turned off for 10-15min it will re-start, but invariably cuts out again...


Could be caused by either of following;

1. Faulty thermostat.
2. Faulty thermal cut out switch. (controls power to cooling fan).
3. Faulty cooling fan (not fan inside oven).

Test thermostat by setting thermostat to low temperature like 60 oC. If oven gets much hotter then its a faulty thermostat.
To test cooling fan and thermal switch take oven out and remove top or rear panels to expose components.
When oven gets hot the cooling fan should turn on. If it doesn't then check to see if there is a mains voltage present.
If mains current exist but fan is not turnig then replace fan. If mains voltage is not present then its the thermal switch.

Mar 01, 2009 | AEG B1180-4 Electric Single Oven

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