Question about Hitachi 61SWX10B 61" Rear Projection Television
Here are a couple of common faults for this model from the hitachi Sevice Website
Symptom: INTM GOES DEAD
Cause: SOLDER K088,89,90,91 (JUMPERS)
Symptom: POWERS UP; SHUTS DOWN
Cause: CHECK C922, C921, L708, CONNECTION AT PIN 1 OF I907
Read below and decide if you want to tackle the problem yourself if so I’ll help along the way with what info I have. If not contact the nearest repair shop armed with the info below.
A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition.
The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s(CRT projection TV’s) can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom (CRT standard and Projection).
The only way to determine the real cause is :
By an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound or picture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints (all TV’s and electronics) that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try this site:
They have replacement mirrors for yoyr model of projection TV
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
I have worked on several of this model for power surge damage. Usually what I find is a blown fuse, a shorted regulator i.c. and possibly a blown bridge rectifier(diode array). On rare occasions you can solve this problem by replacing only the fuse, but if the fuse blows when you plug the set in, you will more than likely find above mentioned parts have failed. The best thing to do is to call a repairman but if you have an ohm meter you can test it yourself:1.Unplug set and remove rear cover.2.Get spotlight and look closely at where power cord connects to circuit board.Small glass fuse will appear black if open usually.Otherwise,test for continuity, or just replace it.3.After replacing fuse plug power cord back in while looking at fuse.If you see an instant flash, fuse blew again meaning you will need to obtain parts in power supply and solder work will be required. That is probably as far as I can take this other than saying that you might first want to look at underside of circuit board to determine if major surge damage has occurred. If it has you will immediately know because it will have burn marks all around a/c power supply. I hope this helps, Russmann.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
This model uses two convergence IC's----if 3 D one or both are bad.
Most of the time this set uses either two of the STK-392-110 OR THE STK-392-150 CHIPS.
Both chips and any bad protection resistors around them need to be replaced and the set adjusted.
If you are able to do the repair yourself total parts cost will be under 30 dollars.
Some history for you:
This set like all rear projection tube type sets uses two chips---the ones in your set are Black in color--about 2 1/2 inches wide X 1 1/2 inches tall and are on either one large or two smaller heat sinks with fins on them.
When the chips are installed a white grease called heat sink compound is applied to the metal back of each---the grease transfers heat from the chip quickly to the metal it is bolted to.
After some years the grease dries out from the heat and one of the chips goes instantly.
You can buy a pair of the chips for your set on Ebay for less than 15 dollars plus shipping--
If you cannot do the repair yourself--shop around your area---most shops charge 300-400 for this type of repair. Whoever you get to do it make sure BOTH chips are replaced or you will have the same problem in a few months.
If you open the set and locate the chips---they will have the full STK number printed on them in white letters----there are about 12 resistors around them that need to be looked at--if any are discolored they need to be replaced.
If a shop says it HAS TO GO TO THE SHOP keep looking as any good tech can do this repair right in your home in about 1 hour---I know as I have done hundreds of them.
IF you can solder and are handy I will give you general instructions on how to do the repair and what you need---some people I talk to can either do it or have a friend who can do it for them---let me know
I can tell you what you will need aside from the parts and how to proceed with the fix---
If all this helped rate this solution---I do this here for free.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR NEED ADVICE LET ME KNOW--I am here to help people.
Regards, SD TECH
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
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