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I am replacing the thermostat on my Roper dryer. Model number of dryer is RES7745RQ0. I went to a local parts supplier and I received the ''Thermal Cutoff kit'' with the part number 279769. The spade connector seems too large on one side. The red wire in my dryer has a lager connector than the white wire. Did I get the wrong part or am I overlooking something, doing something wrong?

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It may be 279816. it can also depend on what thermal fuse you are trying to replace.part # 3977393 includes both the fuses that go on the
heating element can

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks very much Seth. I was thinking 279816 may have been what I needed. The element that I also replaced has the part number 279838. Does this help?"

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Whirlpool electric dryer high thermostat replacement


test all this steps in according with your model, electric or gas. God bless you


Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer.

Jul 21, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Roper dryer ran a cycle with no heat then when I turned it off and tried to turn it back on...it will not come on at all. What might be the problem, I have checked the electric source and it is fine.


Hello, It is possibly the thermal fuse. Be sure to clean out the vent hose and the vent pipe to the outside to prevent over heating. If the vent system is ok then replace the thermostat as well as the thermal fuse. You can goto - http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action - to buy parts and get a parts breakdown of most brands. Just enter your model number and select model search.
Good Luck

Mar 12, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Roper electric dryer will not heat after replacing heating element and thermal fuse. what's wrong.


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Feb 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model RES7745PQ0 works great but no heat... what is most likely the problem... also I checked my breaker so that's not it...? HELP\r\nBest Regards


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Jan 19, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

How do I know which thermal unit is the one that shuts the dryer off when the clothes are dry? one's called a cycling thermostat, another is called a fixed thermostat and the third is called thermal...


Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at pcappliancerepair.com. If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 10, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

1 week ago the dry was extremely hot and now this week the dryer is cold and the clothes are wet.


Last week your cycling thermostat went bad. This week you thermal fuse went out. This is how it happened.
You dryer cycles on a thermostat. When it goes out the dryer then cycles on the (high limit) thermal fuse. When it goes out. The dryer stops heating. You will find both after you remove the back of the dryer. They are easy to replace. There are two different thermal fuses but if you order the parts using the model number you will have no problem. These two parts are sold in a kit.
Please rate this solution.

Sep 01, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Roper Gas Dryer


The first thing I would check is the thermal fuse (#6 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram). Replace if it's open.
Also, the manufacturer recommended to replace the cycling thermostat (#8 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram) too if the thermal fuse is open.

- The part number for the thermal fuse AP3132867

- The part number for the cycling thermostat AP3131939


- Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper dryer Model RGX4634KQ2

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Jan 28, 2009 | Roper RGX4634KQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer isnt drying on frist cycle


This is most likely an element problem. it is best that a tech replace it but if you feel comfortable take it out and to your local repair shop. match it up and reinstall it.


good luck
Jason

Jan 19, 2009 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

ROPER DRYER WILL NOT HEAT


Put the back panel back, and hope you havent done permanent damage
the back does not come off roper dryers for service
the front does
the back panel serves solely as a mounting point for important fixtures
there is no reset button
there are thermal fuses, if the thermal fuse, mounted on the exhaust duct or fan housing has failed, it must be replaced, but they are not expensive
look like this de074eb.jpgbcb6b5f.jpg to access the dryer mechanism

unplug dryer
remove lint filter
remove 2 screws under lint filter
with putty knife or other blunt blade, depress spring catches at front corners of top cover
raise front cover
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/3 from top
remove door switch wires
remove front panel set aside
test all thermostats heater and thermal fuse with ohmmeter, remove 1 wire test for conduct replace wire, no conduct replace
the local parts store will have the part, labelled whirlpool, ~$14 for thermal fuse, ~$40 if heater

examine rear panel reinstall any thing that is dismounted
while the dryer is open
Clean the lint out of fan, fan housing, ducts
airflow blockage is the 99% cause of thermal fuse blowing, some lint always gets past the lint screen
b846671.jpg

Oct 29, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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