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I have a model 2016S chain saw and need to know how the fuel lines are hooked up from the fuel tank to the primer bulb and to the carburetor. does the filler line in the fuel tank go directly to the carburetor or does it go to the primer bulb and then to the carb?

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Tank filter goes to the primer bulb and then to the carb.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for the help I assume the other linefrom the carb closest to the manifold goes to the tank. noralnj@aol.com "

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What could I damage on my boat fuel line? Primer bulb, any filter ... ?


There could be several reasons. I'd first look at stuck floats in the carbs. I believe there's 3 carbs and if all spark plugs are wet all floats are sticking.

But assuming it didn't overheat, and the spark plugs are wet with fuel (as opposed to water) - sometimes a defective coil will short out only when it gets warm (most time they short all the time). They can be tested.

A very good mechanic once told me there are only four things to concentrate on: Suck, Squish, Bang, and Blow. In other words, Fuel delivery, Compression, ignition system/spark, and proper exhaust. My experience has been that I've never had to worry about Blow (knock on wood) with an outboard. Others have however.

Additional advice: The number 1 cause of outboard problems is gas. Todays fuels are great for fuel injected cars but break down sooner than old gas mixtures. Always put a fuel stabilizer in you tank. It's cheap and only takes a few ounces to protect from hundreds of dollars worth of carb work - and avoid sticky floats.

Jul 06, 2014 | Clymer Evinrude/Johnson 2-70 HP Two-Stroke...

1 Answer

1998 8.5 hp tecumseh 27 inch snowblower idles way too high,backfires. the turtle to rabbit lever seems to have no effect


Hi
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages .
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 24, 2011 | Mastercraft Vacuums

1 Answer

Homelite mighty lite 26b get no fuel


Hi airizarry15...
Here are some things to check...

I will also include a fuel routing picture
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
*****************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up
hunter19_46m_16.gif

Sep 18, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Will not start- seems to be fuel starvation.


Hi peterblesset...
You did not give me any info on what kind of engine that is starving for fuel.
So I will give you my solution to 2 cycle some 4 cycle chainsaw and trimmer engines with fuel problems and igintion problems.
**********************************************************************************************
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
*****************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later
reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 13, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

At first when I tried starting my B & S I primed the motor and it ran for a few seconds and died. This happened twice. I drained the tank and took apart the cvarb and blew out the entire carb. Put it...


Hi tifix1...
Yes, that could cause your problem.
I will offer a few more things to check and repair/replace, maybe there is a few things that you missed.
Please take time to rate me

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

Aug 23, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Need to adjust carb, wont run


Hi dbk48..
Your listing is under vacuum cleaners and I have never seen a vacuum with a carburetor.
You did not say what machine (lawnmower,weed trimmer,ect) would not run...so it is really difficult to tell you how to adjust the carburetor.
I will include some info on a trimmer/mower carburetor repair...Just guessing that is what you need.
Please take time to rate me
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your problem may be more than just a carburetor adjustment...

Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

Aug 17, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

I have a Tornado cordless chain saw. I have lost user guide. How do I oil this chain saw?


Google on line and ask for a user manual giving the name, product model number of equipment you are in need of an instruction guide.

Apr 03, 2011 | Tornado CW50 - 91450 Bagged Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

I have a McCulloch Model PM 310 , Gas Chainsaw. How would the spark plug be accessed?....Rich


Storing a chain saw for longer than 30 days requires storage maintenance. Unless the storage instructions are followed, fuel remaining in the carburetor will evaporate, leaving gum-like deposits. This could lead to difficult starting and result in costly repairs. Never store a chain saw for longer than 30 days without performing the following procedures:
Remove the fuel tank cap slowly to release any pressure in tank. Carefullydrain the fuel tank.Start the engine and let it run until the unit stops to remove fuel from carburetor. Allow the engine to cool (approximately 5 minutes).
Using a spark plug wrench, remove the spark plug.
Pour 1 teaspoon of clean 2-cycle oil into the combustion chamber. Pull starter rope slowly several times to coat internal components. Replace spark plug.
Store the unit in a dry place and away from possible sources of ignition such as a furnace, gas hot water heater, gas dryer,etc. When removing the unit from storage, be sure to perform the following procedures:Remove spark plug. Pull starter rope briskly to clear excess oil from combustion chamber.Clean and gap spark plug or install a new spark plug with proper gap.Prepare unit for operation.Fill fuel tank with proper fuel/oil mixture.

This will help. Thanks, please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Dec 15, 2009 | McCulloch MC1275 Steam Vacuum

2 Answers

Mc Culloch chain saw


You will need a parts breakdown and exploded views to start with as well as a manual , All you have to do is call 1-800-521-8559 and select U.S. then select the parts department, have your model number ready and ask them for a PDF of the owners user manual to be emailed to you, they will normally be sent in 1 hour for free.

After that is done then you can see the fuel filter and line inside the tank you will need to replace, take your printed views and manual to the nearby lawn mower shop and they will help you get the parts you need even if the original ones are not available. blow out the carb with chemtool and install the parts, use NEW GAS, NEW OIL and from that day forward never leave fuel in a unit for more than 3 months. Good Luck...

Aug 18, 2008 | McCulloch MC1275 Steam Vacuum

6 Answers

McCulloch Chain Saw Manual


Found all the mcculloch manuals you could ever want on mcculloch product information site. Its run by mcculloch an you put the product weather chainsaw or strimmer whatever an the type in the next collum an press download then print it off all very easy. My manual was in german so made up i found stumbled on this.

Jan 14, 2008 | McCulloch MC1275 Steam Vacuum

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