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from the edges of the door you will find a hole that allows you to get to a normally a Phillips headed screw that is parallel to the track. This screw adjusts the height of the door on the roller body. It also adjust the vertical position of the door to make it line up with the opening edges . Turn both sides evenly to lift the door and then one side or the other to correct the opening alignment.
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.
-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives
The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO
You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)
The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.
Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.
I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.
I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)
turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.
You may need to adjust your overscan.
To do this you will need to press "MENU",
now adjust the "V-POSITION" and move it only until the white line disappears.
The line that you see at the top sounds like SMPTE code, which is used by broadcasters for many purposes.
You need to adjust the position center of the scan materials.. The scanner pulls sheets fronm the center of the feeder. Using a single sample page to scan.. You need to move the feed guides the same distance as your black line - either to left or right as appropiate.. (Which side is the mark?) to find the center w/out leaving black line edges. Keep adjusting it till you eliminate the black line. Foxed me good first time I saw it..
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!
try fixing the convergence 2 after your've aligned the convergence 1 - the second (accessed via the set up control) let's you adjust on 9 different axis to align the red and blue tubes to the green. you select which + sign you want to adust by pressing the corresponding number for the + ie 1 for the top left, and 9 for the lower right corner.
good luck (note - you cant change the green only the red and blue, if the whole edge is a mess try moving the image (you need to be in zoom mode, and then access the position adjustment via the pitcure set up screen.