Question about Leviton 5225ISP Switch and Outlet

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How to wire so switch controls outlet? We hooked it up. The switch controls the light fixture but no power is going to the outlet.

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  • briansmall May 11, 2010

    Is this an outlet that should already be controlled by the switch? Or are you wiring an existing outlet to be on the switch? Or is this a new outlet you are adding? Do you want the switch to control both plugs on the outlet, or only one.



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You should run a short "jumper" wire from the same screw that the light fixture's wire is on to the brass screw at the outlet. If you put the jumper on the OTHER side of the switch, the outlet will be always on.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009


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Wiring outdoor motion lights (with 14/2) to a nearby outlet (possibly 12/2)that has power. After wiring into outlet and turn on breaker, I lose power, but don't trip the breaker?

First take a cord and hook it to the motion lite and make shure it works .Remember that it only will work at night or dark area and you have to have lights in the fixture to make the contact.and make shure the plug is not on a dimmer or the wires are flipped. WHT. To the common side and black to the darker side and it has to be grounded .exspeacily if it is a led fixture.

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Would like some troubleshooting help with a ceiling fan that the switch turns the light on/off but the remote won't control the fan. Can anyone help with wiring questions?

Is the remote control function an add-on to the fan, or is that built into the unit? If it's built in you'll want to go to the manufacturer on that one. As for wires in the wall, black is "usually" the 'live' wire, while white is the cold line. I'm no expert on wiring, but have done some outlets and light fixtures before. Good luck!

Dec 07, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Have b/r/w coming in....b/w go to old duplex from outlet to direct to light switch...want to replace duplex with gfci and add a two switch device, one switch controlling existing...

Hi Augie, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a couple of notes. You must provide GFCI protection for a fixture (light, fan, etc.) in a shower under any of the following conditions: 1) If the manufacturer specifies this protection in this location (nearly every fan in a shower requires this protection), 2) If the local / state electrical code requires it (the National Electric Code does not have such a requirement) and 3) If the local wiring inspector requires it. You can argue with the inspector if there is no local / state requirement - but is usually not worth the effort.

Next, cautionary notes: Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices have nearly been eliminated in newer fixtures and small motor loads. Some older fluorescent fixtures and larger motor loads may cause some trouble - but that's about it especially if an inspector is requiring the protection (this happens pretty often). If a newer light fixture is tripping a GFCI device - something is wrong. This should be fully checked out before powering it again. There is a very real potential for shock or burns under the right conditions. Use extreme caution here. Maybe a new fixture is in order??

Finally, to your question. Most GFCI outlets have LINE and LOAD terminals. This means that anything connected to the LOAD terminals will have the benefit of GFCI protection. The line terminals however, are not protected.

If you connect the circuit that you do NOT want to have GFCI protection to the wires that will be connected to the LINE terminals, no GFCI protection will be afforded to them.

The circuit that you DO wish to have GFCI protection should be connected to the LOAD terminals. Since you can not secure two wires to a terminal, you will need to connect a short length (8") of insulated wire to each of the line terminal screws (silver and gold screws) and connect the other end to the wires that supply power to this GFCI outlet *and* the wires that will provide non-GFCI protected power to the light fixture through the switch; with wirenuts.

Basically, the jumper from the outlet to the switch can not come from the LOAD terminal - instead it must come before the protection - from the wire that brings "hot" power to the LINE terminal side. The same holds true for the white neutral wire that connects to the fixture; it can not come from the LOAD terminal - it must come from the wire that brings "neutral" power to the LINE terminal of the GFCI outlet.

I hope this helps and good luck! If you have more questions - ask away.

May 07, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

2 Answers

I have a fan with two light locations on it ( one above the motor almost at the cieling and the other at the base of the fan/light) I have 5 wires white, black, blue, orange and green. on the fan I have...

You should be able to trace the wires from the top of the fan and find where they go. Of course you should have green, black, and white in the fan and yes the blue should be for the light. some fans with dual lights will both be controlled by the blue wire, and some will have a separate, so it is very possible it is the orange. If you can't follow the wire into and through the fan and light kit you may just have to "experiment". You said there are "2" switches that control the fan, and they meet at the fixture box? If there are two switches then you will have two hot wires, usually one black and one red (but it could be two black), but you said your fixture box only has black and white. (unless you have 2 black and didn't mention that, then most likely the other switch is for another light, or wall outlet. You may need to trace this to find out for sure. If you have separate switches for the light and fan, then Great! you can hook the fan to one and the lights to the other. Otherwise you'll have to hook fan and light both to the one switch and control them with pull chains. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Oct 01, 2010 | Westwind Classic Hugger Polished Brass 52"...

1 Answer

Both the fan and light have ceased to function!!!

As an electrician, this is a fairly common problem with any kind of fixture - not limited just to paddle fans. The problem is likely a loose connection in the ceiling box, or even elsewhere in the circuit, as the chance that both the fan and light failed at the same time is very slim. Since the fixture is a paddle fan - when it is operated it causes movement and is a dynamic load - as a opposed to a static load that a non-moving simple light fixture would present. The constant movement can loosen a connection over time. Before we go any further, operate any speed control / light switch on the fixture itself to make sure they haven't been accidentally set to the off position.

Shut off the power. Loosen the screws on the cover or canopy that that will allow access to the wiring compartment in the ceiling. LOOK for anything obviously loose. You may need to have someone hold the fixture once you remove it from the hanger to see the connections - or simply disconnect the fixture wires from the house wiring completely. There may be 2 or 3 wires besides any bare or green ground wire that supplies the fixture. Photograph or otherwise mark the wires before removing the fixture wires.

Turn the power back on, and use a tester (preferably a meter) to see if power is present on the ceiling box wires that supplied the fixture. If present, the problem lies in the fixture wiring or individual fan / light pull chain switches. Wires do not fail along unbroken lengths unless cut. They will fail at places they are joined together. There may be a wiring compartment in the light fixture that has a loose connection. Inspect for loose or bad connections with power off and continue testing as above until you isolate the bad connection.

If there was no power in the ceiling earlier when the power was restored, there is a break elsewhere between the power source and the ceiling box. You'll have to look in switch boxes and outlet boxes in the room and possibly adjoining rooms to find the loose connection. It may even be in an adjoining room's ceiling box, too. This is a labor intensive job - and can take some time to locate and repair. Take your time and only turn power on when ready to check for the presence of power.

Of course, you could call an electrician to do the work for you. I hope this was helpful - good luck!

Aug 10, 2010 | Hampton Bay 52 In. White Redington...

1 Answer

Need to find out how to hook up a toggle switch/outlet

You can't, not without running an additional wire. The black and white pair of wires that you have is most likely routed from the ceiling fixture. The black wire would be the hot wire coming to the switch and the white is the switched hot wire returning to the fixture. You don't have a neutral available at this location, so you can't make the outlet work, just the switch. ----- Sorry for the bad news. Thanks for using fixya. Al Kupchella

Apr 30, 2010 | Pass & Seymour #681ICC6 15A Ivory...

1 Answer

I have a breaker that keeps blowing. 3 wire plus ground from header to wall, black, white and ground...another set feeds two not being used in second??? If light switch is in the...

When you turn the switch on, you are closing it on a short, that much is clear. But I am reading between the lines here. Tell me if I have this right....
Red,black,white & ground come in through the top of switch box. The switch is supposed to control a ceiling fixture. A Black,white&ground goes out bottom of switch box to feed two wall outlets. The switch is not used to control the wall outlets.
And I am guessing that this is not a 3-way switch - it has only two terminals (besides the ground) - and there is not another switch controlling the same ceiling fixture.
If I have all that right, then the correct connections will be---
The black wire coming in from the the top, plus the black wire going out the bottom and one of the switch terminals should all be connected together.
The red wire should be connected to the other switch terminal.
The two white wires should be connected together, not to the switch.
I hope this was helpful to you. Let me know if it worked out. And if I misunderstand the issue, please add comments to clarify. Thanks for using FixYa.

Mar 31, 2010 | Hammering

1 Answer

I am installing a receptacle and a light switch in the same box how do i wire it

Hello GWarren,

If you already have the supply current coming into the present box, then you will first, make sure the power is turned "OFF" at the breaker panel before doing any work on this circuit.

Once the power is off, you would then run the supply, (incoming power line) to the bottom screws of the receptacle (outlet). the Black (Hot or Common) wire goes to the brass colored screw, while the White (Neutral) wire, goes onto the silver colored screw. Hook up the bare copper (Ground) wire to the Green grounding screw on the outle.

Now, you have power going to the outlet. For the light switch, it (I'm assuming) will control a light, either on the ceiling or wall mounted ones, etc. In order to do that, you would run another wire, typically #14/2 Awg with a ground, from the switch/outlet box to the bow where the light to be controlled by the switch, is located.

You will need to then connect a short piece of Black wire, about 8" long, from the outlet's brass colored screw (use the one without another wire connected to it, or double up with an existing wire, making sure they are both snug and secure). This should go to the BOTTOM of the light switch with the switch (look for "OFF" on the toggle, or see the metal strap for the proper orientation of the switch for determining which end is up!)

Now, the wires that go to the switched light: Take the white wire FROM the light and connect it to the white screw on the outlet. Now take the Black wire from the light location and connect it to the TOP of the light switch. Take the ground wire from the light location and connect it to the light switch AND over to the outlet ground. (If this is in a Metal box, you also have to attach the Ground wire to the metal box using a Green colored grounding screw, per Code requirements). As a Licensed Master Electrician, you should verify that your application meets the local requirements and codes, based on your location, as each part of the country has some special quirks to installations, based on their experiences. For instance, in Chicago, IL, you have to wrap electrical tape around all the device (outlets & switches, etc.) before they can be approved for installing into electrical boxes.

Please remember, there are several ways to accomplish the type of wiring you are looking to accomplish, and getting it done really depends on where your supply electricity is presently located (at the outlet/switch box or at the llight fixture, etc).

I would strongly suggest that you visit your local library and check out a Bacis Wiring Book, (or you can buy one at Home Depot or Lowes) so you better understand how to best wire your devices so they are done correctly, and most importantly, safely! If in doubt, ask a follow up quesions

You now have a constantly "live" outlet and have taken off power to control the switch that will operate your light fixture or device.

Here's some wiring drawings that might help you with your situation, as it covers 4 variations.

Again, if you have any doubts, please comment back and if possible, provide some photos of the electrical boxes you have and I'll try to help you figure it out!

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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4 Answers

Switch loop with mutiple fixtures

Here you go:


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Sep 26, 2009 | Cooper Lighting Lighted Switch

2 Answers

I am attempting to replace an old bathroom exhaust fan with a Broan 680 fan/light. I am having a problem with the wiring. There are 2 wall switches for the light and fan. The existing wiring has red,...

The red and the black are the hot wires. One will be the fan and one is the light. The white is the 'common' for both fan and light.
It sounds like the new fixture has got one hot for both the light and fan, they will both run all the time from one switch. This is the blue wire. Hook it to the red or the black, which ever one comes from the switch you want to control it. Hook the white to the white on the new fixture.
The green is just a ground. hook it to the new fixture green or ground terminal. Cap or the black or the red that you don't use. It won't be need for the new one. The switch that it comes from will not control anything now.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

Jul 25, 2009 | Broan-NuTone FAN CONTROL SWITCH

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