Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The switch is broken and needs to be replaced.
This happens a lot
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This is the answer.
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Posted on Dec 09, 2008
A refrig cannot pull 40 amps in defrost , unless there is a direct short in the defrost system ( timer , heater , bimetal ) . I would use an extention cord ( for test purposes only ) , and try a different plug . Sounds like the circuit breaker is weak . In defrost , the MOST you should get , is 6 amps . This will not throw a 40 amp breaker . If you have an amp meter , remove the back refrig panel behind the refrig , and connect to one of the power cord lines (just not the green ground ) , turn into defrost and check the amps . This will tell you if short is in refrig , or weak breaker .
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
if your food is staying cold your fridge is working fine,you probably have a blocked drain.you will find water under criper draws and maybe leaking out on floor,take off the back freezer wall and take out floor, melt out the drain and remove all the ice on freezer floor,now you have to clean out the drain,i use a steamer that you can buy for like 40 bucks,it's a shark super steamer,it will clean out all the slime that builds up in the drain line or you have to snake out the drain line with a plastic tie or something,when you think you cleaned out the line pour hot water into the drain and if the water goes down you know you unclogged it,you can buy a heater probe that installs down the drain and wraps around the heater so the line can't freeze up again,if this is not your problem you can advance the timer in the fridge side on the ceiling by turning it with a screw driver until it comes out of defrost and if it was sticking or not coming out of defrost on it's own change the timer the new part number for your timer is 2183400 hope this helps
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
SOURCE: I have a whirlpool refrigerator
That is going to be a problem with one of the components in the automatic defrost system. It is supposed to automatically defrost. Turning it off overnight to melt it will defiently help. If you are mechinacally inclined here is what to check.
DEFROST HEATER ...remove back wall of freezer and you will see a black heater at the bottom of the coil thats frosted up,it looks similar to the bake element in your oven. To check it,use a multimeter set to the lowest ohms of resistiance setting and follow and find the wires at the top of that frosted coil,unplug/disconnect those wires and check for continuty with around 5-20 ohms of resistiance. If it has that amount of ohms the heater is good. If your meter display does not change or displays OL the defrost heater is broke and needs to be replaced
DEFROST TERMINATION THERMOSTAT... it's round and has 2 wires and clips to the top of that frosted up coil. IT MUST BE CHECKED WHEN COLD SO BEST TO DO WHEN FROST IS STILL BUILT UP. To check it disconnect the wires on it and check for ZERO ohms of resistiance. As with the heater if the meter display OL or doesnt change,it is the problem
DEFROST CONTROL...it is hard to check for a semi unskilled person and if the heater or defrost t-stat check good its going to be the problem. It will NOT be in the freezer it could be on back wall or inside the control panel in the refrigerator section.
Posted on Aug 13, 2011
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