Question about Refrigerators
The evaporator fan on my fridge keeps icing up and stops functioning. I have noticed it twice and been able to open up the evaporator section and manualy defrost with a turkey baster and some hot water which seems to work for about a month.
SOURCE: Kenmore Fridge 596.76509500
KentC, This was my post on a model like yours. Read thru this and let me know what you find. If the ice/frost buildup is fairly thick and only on the back freezer panel then you have a defrost problem. Most likely the defrost thermostat is bad. It would be hard to explain how to test this in writing but there is a tech sheet underneath the fridge behind the grill on the r/f. It is in plastic which is stuck to the fridge. This tech sheet will tell you how to put it into diagnostic mode. First take the back panel of the freezer off (may need to get frost off first). Should be four 1/4" screws in each corner of the panel to remove. Will need to remove racks, door (should just lift off), and ice maker first. Remove vent in center of freezer panel by pushing up little tab in the center of the vent and using a screw driver to pop it loose on each side of the vent. Then remove thermistor cover on right hand side of panel. Remove (by pushing thru) ice maker plug. Once the panel is off put the fridge into defrost by the instructions on the tech sheet. If it goes into defrost (heater will get hot) then the main control board is bad. If not shut the doors to reset, defrost evaporator with a hair dryer and remove the defrost thermostat. It is a little metal round piece with two wires coming out of it and just clips onto the evaporator. Cut the two wires coming out of the thermostat, strip them back and splice them together. Now put it into defrost again. If the heater comes on then you know the thermostat is bad. Diagnostics mode can also test all functions i.e. condensor motor, compressor, evaporator fan, and thermistors. With all of that said, if it isn't a thick frost buildup the evaporator fan motor may be bad which is the most common repair on this model. It sits just behind the vent in the center of the freezer panel. Let me know what you find.
Posted on Oct 20, 2007
problem could be door seals not sealing completely and hence excessive ice formed on evaporator and excess water when it melts. however, i have found this problem many times with large larder fridges and really found no cure.
towards the bottom of the back wall, there is a gulley with a drain hole in the middle. this drain is blocked. clear it with something flexible and make sure water flows away freely
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing over
You are probably correct, the auto defrost sub-system is faulty -- and probably the timer. You'll have to take the back panel out of the freezer to see the defrost timer.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
if you have a gas leak then you find the liquid boil off very early in the evaporator only, there should be no visible frosting until after the end of the capillary
Posted on May 15, 2009
SOURCE: Frost free failure on a GE fridge. Removed access panel to freezer section to find evaporator coils crusted in frost. Cannot locate defrost timer and cannot locate any repair manuals online. I'm not w
The defrost timer is electronic and built in to the main control board on the rear of the box.
The defrost heater and defrost thermostat are the most likely culprits on this brand.
They are in the freezer above and below the coil.
They usually come as a set.
Posted on May 24, 2009
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
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