Question about Ecoquest Flair Air Purifier

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Flair Fan Hi there, I have a Flair and the switch for the fan isn't working properly (I think). It runs, but the fan stays at the same (low) speed in spite of turning the dial up or down. When I press the ionizer button, the fan comes on full-speed. However, this only last for about an hour (this is the feature that they tell you to leave the room after your press it). So, my question: should I send this in or does it sound like it's the switch or dial that controls the speed of the fan?

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OK, good news and bad. Check the actual fan speed potentiometer with a ohmmeter. There are only two outs from the pot itself to the little circuit board that its attached too. The pot is 75K so make sure your ohmmeter is in the right range setting. With the meter connected, turn the dial and make sure it goes from 0 to between 70K and 75K ohms. If it doesnt or its all over the board, then the pot is the problem. Now I can't seem to find one that is a direct replacement, 75K is an oddball. I didn't un-solder mine from the board. If yours is bad, unsolder it and look on the back for the manufacturers part number, google that with the p/n as the search terms.

The circuit for the fan is not tied to the sanatize button. The circuit is relatively small, with two film capacitors, two resistors, a diode, and a triac. The circuit is on the board located underneath the unit. The circuit is located right next to the fan pot inputs on the main board. Its about 1" square with the "fan pot" inputs at the bottom left corner, if reading labels right-side-up. Resistors are almost indestructable so it is probably not them. I would lean towards the triac, diode, or caps. Look at the components and the solder connects in that circuit. If anything looks burned or black, or a solder joint looks like it has gotten too hot, that component is probably the problem. If its not the pot, which more likely than not it probably is, then I would lean towards the triac or diode. Here is the triac p/n:511-BTB06-600T. The diode I would also have to unsolder to access the part number, or I would list that as well.

I would start at the pot. That would be my guess as to what went bad. It could also be a bad solder joint on the small board the pot is soldered on to. Also check and clean the 1/4" disconnect terminals on the fan motor itself. For mine, I just cut off the old female terminals on the wires and crimped on new ones.
Hope this can give some help.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

  • pwrman Sep 29, 2009

    Sorry for the lengthy post. Also check the fan motor, see if maybe the armature, or part that spins, is shorting on the winding, or outside coil. The units get pretty corroded and dirty.

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Absent any more details about your situation, this will get you started.

1. Make sure the safety cut-out switch on the lint screen in the back is properly engaged by the plastic plug on the screen. If this is out-of-position, nothing works (nor should it). This may fix the problem.

2. Check the fuse; if blown again, you have a short someplace that the fuse is protecting you from. Look for loose connections, or damaged components. Also make sure that nothing got left in the machine (eg. thread from cleaning rags), or any wires didn't get properly re-connected when you cleaned it.

If this doesn't fix it, write back with more details - - will the fan run, but not the O3 plates, or vice versa - - I'll need more infomation at that point.

If/when this solves the issue, please rate it accordingly.

Thanks in-advance for using Fixya.com,

Jon

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