- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Yes, you most certainly can. It depends on how handy you are and to what extent you are willing to go to make this happen. A lot will depend on how comfortable you are with electrical wiring and understanding HVAC controls and their function.
First though, this is the typical way a wood fired forced air furnace is designed to operate. There is a control transformer and relay to control either a combustion air fan (that you do not have) OR a motorized damper for combustion air that you also do not have. The relay closes on a call for heat from the thermostat and opens the damper from its minimum position to allow combustion air into the firebox. As long as there is solid fuels (wood) in the heat chamber, the fresh supply of combustion air will allow the fire to burn or begin to burn very quickly.
As the temperature in the wood furnace plenum increases, the automatic fan control will start the fan and it will run as long as the bonnet temperature is higher than the fan'on' setpoint on the fan control... Now the house warms up and the thermostat satisfies which allows the combustion air damper to spring back to the minimum position, causing the hot fire to die down due to lack of combustion air.
The now smoldering fire will not generate enough heat to keep the fan running too long, so the automatic fan control shuts the fan off until the house cools approximately 2 degrees below thermostat setpoint. The thermostat calls for heat and opens the damper and on goes the cycle....
An important item to remember is that on the automatic fan control, there is a 'limit switch' function. The motorized combustion air damper or the combustion air fan must be wired through the limit switch in case the bonnet temperature exceeds 200 degrees F. This function will then allow the damper to go to the minimum position or the combustion air fan to go off, causing the fire to cool down due to lack of adequate combustion air.
You don't want the thermostat controlling the circulating fan directly, because of two things: 1). If the fire is out, there is no heat to circulate but the thermostat wouldn't know that and it would start and run the fan continuously until a fire is built. and ....
2). You would still be running up and down the stairs monitoring the fires burn rate by opening and closing the lower door manually.
ALL the components you need are readily available from WW Grainger....basically : a fan/limit control
a 110v x 24v 40 va control transformer
a 24v spdt relay
20 ga. two conductor thermostat wire
24v actuator and linkages to mount to the existing combustion air damper. A bit of creativity is required here. I would not recommend retro-fitting a combustion air fan.
14-2 wg romex for wiring the fan control
Again, it depends to what extent you are willing to go to achieve the end result. Will it be exactly like a new system?? No, but it will operate a lot better than that which you describe.
If you're cooking when it's hot outside, it's hard to maintain low temperatures. In the heat of summer, I have to tend my grill continually opening and closing the lid to keep the temperature down to my cooking temp of 180. That, of course, lets the smoke escape. If it gets too hot when the temperatures are moderate, i.e. 60s and 70s, the augur may be dumping too many pellets into the fire pot and need realigning. I suggest you contact Traeger customer service at http://www.traegergrills.com and see what they suggest.
Have you cleaned the ash out of the firepot? I clean mine with a shop vac after every five or six uses because the ash builds up and "insulates" the fire, keeping air from the fan reaching it so it just smolders and never really gets hot.
You didn't give any specifics which makes it difficult to respond because there are many reasons why a Traeger grill might not heat to the right temperature.
One of the most common is problems is the outside temperature. If it's hot, the Traeger may overheat unless it is tended constantly. When it's cold, the Traeger may not get as hot as it should based on a normal setting and you may have to set it higher to reach the temperature you want.
Other reasons could be mechanical in that the hot rod may not be keeping the firebox as hot as it should or the fan may not be running as hard as it should to get the temperature to the right setting.
If your firebox has not been cleaned, ash will effectively insulate the fire, preventing heat from building up in the cooker.
Some people clean their Traeger thoroughly after every use. Some never clean theirs until something goes wrong. I clean mine after every 4-6 uses, depending on how long my cooking sessions have been.
If I've been cooking pork shoulder low and slow for many hours, I'll clean it more often than if I had grilled steaks multiple times for 15-20 minutes at a time.
Likely, if you're cooking in "normal" outside temperature of 60-80 degrees, your Traeger should be holding fairly close to the temperature you've set. If it's not then you may have a fan or hot rod problem and you ought to contact Traeger to set what they suggest.
Their is 2 coil hosing but one of them has 3 wires and 2 coils inside it. The ignitor does 2 jobs, it lights the fire and acts as a thermocouple through the holding coil. If the flame does not ignite after the sensor detects the heat from it and shuts down then once the ignitor cools down the gas valve is shut down even if power is going to the gas valve. When the temp drops below 105f in the drum the control closes contacts inside allowing power to be supplied to the gas assembly. The ignitor and flame sensor along with the booster holding and secondary coils are all energized at once but the solenoids won't open the valve because the ignitor is hogging the power. The power supplied to it runs through the flame sensor. When the temp inside the sensor reaches a point the bi-metal inside tripped the power to the ignitor and the power gets diverted over to the secondary coil. Thr flame stays on till the temp inside the drum reaches 160f at which time the control thermostat opens circuit to the gas assembly and power is shut down. The drum continues to tumble and when the temp drops once agin below 105 the process is repeated and another blast of heat is shot into the dryer. So what goes wrong? Faulty flame sensor sticking/open, cracked ignitor, old coils that work intermittently or not at all when hot but work again when cooled. More here.
Whenever you finish using your Traeger it is always best to lift the lid and turn the controller down to the smoke setting and allow the temp to drop for a few minutes. This will also slow down the delivery of fresh pellets into your firepot thus starving the fire of fuel.Once the temp drops below 200 deg F than shut off the controller. If you have any wind blowing remove your Traeger out of the draft of the wind and the fire will go out on its own.