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Hello, I wonder if you can help with my gear problem. The derailleur did work (but not very smoothly) but now will not go from bottom into high gear (small cog) without being forced. Will shift back to high but will not come back down again. Gears are Shimano the adjustment screws do not appear to make any difference. Any ideas will be much appreciated.

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Sounds like a cable problem. Something is sticking and it doesn't take much. Alignment is critical also and a slight bend will throw off the adjustments. I would start with the cable and clean/lube or replace it. If the derailer was recently bumped or hit check the alignment carefully. Make sure the chain has no tight links and is properly lubricated.
Eric

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

Testimonial: "Very useful advice - we have solved the problem as a result of the information provided. Excellent and quick response."

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2 Answers

How to keep my gears from slipping


Firstly ensure the derailleur is in good condition and not bent so the chain is running perfectly in line with the sprockets. Ensure the stop screws limiting the extent of the travel of the derailleur are set correctly to prevent travel beyond the first and last sprocket.

A badly worn chain could need shortening or replacing in order to provide the correct chain tension or a loose chain could be a matter of a derailleur that hasn't seen the oil can for a while and is not tensioning the chain correctly.
If the bike has been involved in an accident the rear forks could perhaps need some adjustment so a straight edge laid alongside the main chain-wheel coincides approximately with the middle of the rear sprocket cluster.

At this stage it is also wise to ensure the gear cable is in A1 condition, smooth operating and properly oiled with no internal frayed strands causing problems.

If your gear selectors are of the modern style with detents the gear cable needs adjusting so the centre of each detent at the gear selector positions the derailleur precisely below the selected sprocket. Once this is done if everything else mentioned above is ok the gears should now operate smoothly and positively.

If adjustment doesn't work then the problem is likely to be with the basic requirements above.
Good luck!

Jan 26, 2015 | Cycling

1 Answer

I have a honda trx 350 es my problem is it wont go into any gear the motor was clicking but now its gone dead


Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

Sep 19, 2011 | Quad Cycling

2 Answers

SRAM Rival Rear Derailleur stays on the large rear gear when shifting from low to high gears. Sometimes the gears doesn't seem to change at all. I've already taken the bike to Performance bike shop...


adjust barrel on rear mech clockwise till gear shifts click brake lrver for next gear repeat same as before with barrel. If this fails stat from bottom og cassette but adjust barrel anti-clockwise to obtain gears.

Jun 05, 2011 | Sram Rival Rear Derailleur

1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

Hi there just got a Kinesis TK2 bike only been on it four times. Was out yesterday for a medium 40miles run but found that the mid gears the chain jumps frequently is there anyway of adjusting it to run...


Break-in stretching of the shift and brake cables is normal.

This is a great site for almost any adjustment:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Drill down through Derailleur Systems, Rear Derailleur Adjustments

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

Save the links. There's a lot to learn from.

Jan 31, 2011 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

Trek 6500 Shimano deraileur adjustment issues


Derailleur adjustment takes time to master. Try this out:
First, wash your drive train out really thoroughly and use a degreaser (Simple Green works really well) and a chain brush on the derailleur and chain. Rinse it off and let it dry, then relubricate the chain (and ONLY the chain - never lubricate your derailleur). Now flip your bike onto the bars and saddle so you can crank while you shift manually. Use the middle chainring up front to adjust the rear gears. Okay, shift into your highest gear in the back and then release the derailleur cable. Use this opportunity to make certain your "H" setting is good; the derailleur's jockey wheel should be perfectly aligned over the small cog. Now manually push the derailleur to the lowest gear (while pedaling) and set the "L" so the jockey wheel is immediately outside the last cog. crank back to the high gear. Turn the barrel adjuster for the cable tension to its half-way point (figured by unscrewing it all the way and then counting revolutions as you screw it back in). Pull the cable taut and reattach it. Shift into your middle gear (or if it is an even number of gears, pick one of the two middle gears). Use the barrel adjuster to get the jockey wheel exactly over the correct cog. Pedal and shift through the gears. In each gear, back-pedal to make sure the chain is not skipping. You should be able to free-wheel without problem in every gear on a properly adjusted drive train. If the gears are requiring much adjustment on the barrel adjuster, then you may have a bent derailleur hanger. This can be straightened manually without tools if you have a good eye and patience. If it goe that far, come back and repost "bent derailleur hanger".

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 28, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Problem with chain and gears


Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 26, 2009 | Cycling

2 Answers

THE CHAIN RIDES OVER THE LARGEST REAR COG,AND DOESN'T CHANGE DOWN TO THE SMALLEST,CHANGING UP TO THE LARGEST COG,IT IS ON IT AND STILL ANOTHER GEAR CHANGE TO GO


Hi,

This one's easy enough.. If you move the derailer through it's full stretch you will see that part of it will be blocked in each direction by a small screw. These screw adjusters are to stop the chain from running over the end gears, and sometimes if they're too tight they can stop the chain from reaching the gears in the first place.
A small screwdriver is all you should need, turn the bike upside down, loosen these screws completely and then change gear to one end first until it runs smoothly on the chain and then do the same with the other.
These are designed to be adjustable so you can add or remove gears/change wheel sizes etc and then readjust to run smoothly..

Hope this helps..

Oct 12, 2009 | Shimano XT M772 Shadow 9-Speed Rear...

1 Answer

Chain coming off fron gear when coasting or trying to pedal backwards? Local bike repair shop indicated that a bearing maybe shot but that they couldn't replace the front gear unit.


Oh, it is too bad you are in the Bronx. i'd have that fixed right quick. There are probably a pair of culprits at work here. One, your derailleurs no doubt need adjustment. Two, your rear derailleur hanger may be bent. These two can both cause the problem. Start with the rear hanger, because that will be easier to see.
Flip the bike onto the bars and saddle and take a look at your rear derailleur. Is it going straight up and down and is it aiming straight with your frame? If it isn't, you have found your problem. The hanger needs to be straightened. This can be done without any tools if you have a good eye. Hold the derailleur by the body and bend it to make the alignment good with the cassette. If this is NOT the problem (but i really think it is) then here is a walk-through on adjusting your derailleurs and hopefully this will solve it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Sep 16, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

I'm trying to adjust the shimano gearing on my trek bike and am having a little trouble


Front or rear? What is it doing?
Flip the bike over onto the handlebars and saddle and let us fix it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Sep 02, 2009 | Cycling

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