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Water won't fill to wash or rinse

Water won't fill

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The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.

Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.

If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.

There are two wires connected to each solenoid on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals ( Be sure to not pull the wires). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.

If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Beko WMP652W washing machine will start cycle but get stuck at end of wash, doesnt go onto rinse or spin any help please?


see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you
When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem: It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
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1 Answer

Error code e01


do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

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The switch the tube connects to shuts the water off. Will it cut off on high medium or low level. You can try blowing on the tube to see if it works. It should cut off when you blow.

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e11 is a water problem filling to slow,you could have a problem with your cold water fill line,clogged sediment in the valve or something like that,when it goes into rinse the machine uses cold water so the clothes won't wrinkle and it sounds like it's filling to slow.

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