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Re: Removed brake assembly from the hub, not sure
Coaster brake? i do not think i could walk you through that; you need images. Parktool.com has a very helpful repair help section (find the link at the top-right of the home page) that is replete with repair, maintenance and adjustment information. It is loaded with images, too, to make it easier if the instructions are not as clear as you would like (but they are very easily understood, generally). Just select the area of the bike you are having trouble with and a list of topics will be brought up. Browse around and find all the information they have for your benefit.
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first you remove all the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. To get the rotor off you will need to remove the brake caliper. they are held in with 1/4" hex screws. If you don't have an allen wrench you can use a socket extension to removes these. Once unscrewed the calpet simply lifts off the rotor and the rotor is ready to come off. You will need to remove the axle nut and keeper then the rotor slides off towards you and the wheel bearings will come out with the rotor.
Rear brakes or Front Brakes? Once the rear drums are removed you have access to all the brake parts for the rear brakes. As far as the front pads are concernedonce you remove teh wheel you ahve access to the caliper assembly which is removed by loosening the two retaining bolts on the back side of the caliper and it lifts off to remove and replace the pads themselves then goes right back on. You will need an Allen Wrench of the proper size to remove the retaining bolts, a caliper compressor to do the front brakes. To remove the rear brakes once the drum is removed you have to use a brake repair tool or a large Flat head screwdriver and a large pair of needle nose pliers. The initial retaining clips for the rear brakes can be removed by grasping the exposed end and turning 90 degrees then use the screwdriver to stretch and leverage off the spring assemblies that operate the brakes.
Lightly losen the lug nuts with the tires on the the ground. Jack up the car and remove the tire according to the owner's manual. Make sure to block the wheels. After the tire is removed, release the park brake. Support the car on jack stands. Remove four bolts from the rear of hub. The hub nut will be 29 mm - it is important that you have a tight fit if you attempt to remove the nut.
At this point you MAY have to loosen or remove the remove the emergency brake cable. Either way the hub is ready to be removed. The front of the hub (with the lugs) and the bearing will come out and the back plate and brake shoes will remain in place.
Once you get it off, you may either purchase a hub assembly (which includes the hub with a new bearing in place ready-to-go) or take the existing hub and a replacement bearing to an auto machine shop which can easily remove the old bearing and install the new bearing. Using extreme care you can remove the old one using bearing pullers and prybars and replace the bearing using large deep sockets or a properly sized piece of steel pipe.
Since you have the hub apart, you should inspect the brake shoes and (brake) wheel cylinders and replace them as needed. Replace brake parts on both sides if you replace them on either.
Put the hub back into the brake shoes. It may only line up one way. Finger tighten ALL FOUR of the bolts and then tighten. Replace the tire and remove the lifting equipment. Start slowly so the brakes can readjust!
Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Remove the tire and remove the brake assembly (caliper, pads, hangar, and rotor). Loosen and remove the nut on the center of the hub (the large one that holds the cv axle to the hub). Then pop out the tie rod end so you can get clearance to the three bolts behind the hub that holds the hub assembly in place. Remove these three bolts, or loosen them as you work the hub assembly out of the knuckle. This may take some "persuasion" from a hammer or a chisel, as they sometimes rust to the knuckle. You wont have to remove the bolts all the way if you continue to loosen them a little at a time as you work the hub out. Disconnect the electrical connector for the abs (if equipped), and remove the assembly. Install is the reverse of removal- put the new hub assembly in place, start the bolts, then tighten them all the way and connect your electrical connector for your abs. Put the rest together, make sure you bolt your cv axle back up. Pump the brakes when you're done, before you drive! These can be frustrating, but it WILL eventually come out. Feel free to contact me with any more questions.
Method A: Using a flat and sturdy piece of metal inbetween the pads, rock the shim back and forth to separate the pads enough to get your rotor in.
Method B: If the pads are completely closed together and "Method A" is impossible, use a flat head screwdriver in between the exposed sections of the metal backing plates and use a twisting motion as though you were screwing in a screw until you are able to utilize "Method A" to finish the job. Make sure if you use the screwdriver not to damage the friction material with it.
i have found that you need to first make sure the cv shaft is moving free in the bearing. soak everything with penitrating oil. you should be able to move shaft in & out a little. the hub is a very tight fit. you need to tap it some from side to side untill you see a little gap between hub and spindel. then place the head of a flat screw driver in that gap and all around the hub, prying back and forth where ever possible. soak, tap and pry all over. be hard on it if replacing, more gentle if not. good luck.
Naturally you need to remove the tire then the brake caliper. After the brake caliper is removed then you need to remove the 34mm axle nut that is inside the hub. After that is removed then you can remove the hub. Becareful not to damage the hub seal on the back or you will have to buy a new hub (100 or more). Then you need to remove the strut knuckle assembly. Once the knuckle assembly is removed then you can pull the CV axle. Take care the inner CV housing is held in place by an inner snap ring. You will probably have to pry off the inner housing. Once the axle is off then install the new axle (if you buy complete axle). Make sure if you are doing both that you take care which side you are installing. I made that mistake and double the work. Slide the new axle on the spline and make sure it is seated completely. Then put back together the reverse of removal.