a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Try blowing out the jet Burners with compressed air especially the one nearest the Ignitor. Right through where the gas comes in.
These can get dusty and cause ignition failures.
Also check to see if the Ignitor is in the path of the burner and has not somehow gotten bent. 100 or so ohms on the Ignitor should be good.
If you suspect its the ignitor? The hot surface ignitor is powered by 120v. Inspect ignitors' hot surface for cracks or burnt spots. Uplug ignitor from board. Cycle heat on and verify 120v to the ignitor at the cannon plug on the board where the ignitor plugs in. If you have the voltage then replace the ignitor. If not, you'll need to verify all other circuits are working before condemning the board. Work safe and at your own risk! Hope this helps!
Cycle the power first & see if the furnace goes through the normal sequence of order. On a call for heat, the vent inducer motor should turn on and the pressure switch should prove negative draft in the heat exchanger. the board then should power the ignition phase whenter it is hot surface ignition, or spark, you should hear a spark or see the orange glow of the ignitor & the gas valve is timed to turn on. If you have proper gas to the furnace, it should allow the gas to flow through the gas valve & ignite the flame. Once the flame is ignited, the romote or local sensor should sense the flame & the blower then kicks on from the time delay in the board. If you don't have any ignition, then something is wrong with either the ignitor, ignition module, pressure switch, or you have a manual limit that is tripped(this looks like a small 1/2 inch disc with a reset button on it) If you have ignition & the flame lights, but drops out, then your flame sensor is dirty & needs a touch of sand paper to clean it up(this looks like a 3 inch metal rod opposite of the ignitor) Make sure your power is off when you clean the sensor if you need to. Also if there is no ignition & the vent inducer motor is running... if it is hot surface igniton, there is a molex plug on the leead wires to it- disconnect & check continuity- should be under 110 ohms.
It sounds like you're describing one of two things. The hot surface ignitor in a gas-fired furnace, or the resistive heat strips in an electric furnace.
The hot surface ignitor in a gas-fired furnace lights the burners. This ignitor in modern furnaces serves the same purpose as the standing pilot flame did in older furnaces. It provides the required heat to ignite the gas at the burners. Without an ignition source, a gas-fired furnace cannot provide heat. When the ignitor is activated it will glow bright orange or yellow.
The resistive heat strips in an electric furnace actually provide the heat to a home or building. When the furnace turns on, the heat strips are activated and usually glow orange when they reach peak temperature. In almost all cases, the heat strips are not easily seen or accessed without removing covers or panels inside the furnace.
yes you can unplug furnace for about 20 seconds and replug then start up unit... a common problem with alot of furnaces this time of year is the hot surface ignitor fails which is the glow plug on the unit .. the unit when called for heat should start a small motor with a wheel on it known as the enducer draft motor then activates the round switch with the plastic hose connected to it...make sure the hose is not kinked or obstructed...pull the end off opposite of the round switch if you **** on the hose should here a clicking sound.. reconnect after the switch has closed then the power is sent over to a ignitor on most furnaces some have spark ignition but either way that is the next step after the ignitor glows red hot then the gas valve should open and fire off ..after it lites there is a flame sensor a metal rod that is in the direct path of the flame that measures current and keeps gas valve open once unit reaches temperature a limit will activate the blower to come on....where does it fail ... most units with a led code will have a sticker attached to the door outer or inner door with code meaning... count the flashes and then look for code...hope this helps out
Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat
for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is
the following sequence of operation:
1. Thermostat calls for
heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a
small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft
inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before
you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a
small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not
sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no
ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock
out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the
sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor
with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a
furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your
furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back
off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel
wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
From what I saw when I googled you furnace it has a hot surface igniter. It only gets hot when it's time to light the furnace. You should be able to see it glowing red when the furnace is trying to light. The furnace has a safety feature which shuts the gas valve when it doesn't detect a flame to prevent gas build up in the furnace. There are other safety features also. If the draft inducer motor isn't running the gas valve won't open. Overheat switches some of which have to be reset manually. Adjust the thermostat until it calls for heat then observe what is or isn't happening in the furnace. It will go thru a purge cycle first. The draft inducer motor will run to do this. After the purge the hot surface igniter should get hot a glow, then the gas valve will open and the burner will light. Let me know what you find.
The sequence is Igniter comes on, valve comes on, flame sensor senses flame. If no flame is sensed after 3 tries, a lockout occurs. If you have a volt meter, check for 24-27 Volts AC coming to the gas valve, if your getting voltage to the valve but no gas, your gas valve is defective. It could be a intermittent problem, no matter, still a bad valve. if no voltage to valve, defective circuit board.
the fan you hear come on at a call for heat is most likely just the inducer motor. the click you hear is probably the relay for the hot surface ignitor which should glow red, then in turn ignite the main burners. your going to have to determine if the ignitor is coming on. if it isnt the ignitor is bad and will need to be replaced. if it comes on and than shuts off after a few seconds the ifc board is probably at fault
don't touch the surface of the igniter when handling it, and don't bind the mounting bracket when you tighten the capscrews, the bracket and igniter should be firm and no loose/movement if you try to move the bracket. also make sure the igniter is going back off after the burners light