Question about LG WM-1832C Front Load Washer
HI, first, make sure there isn't anything preventing the actual door seal from forming a complete seal around the door frame. this can be caused be a creased section of the seal, or a piece of debris. if the seal is free of the above stated issues, in should be replaced asap.
I would also inspect the door alignment as well. if the door is slightly mis-aligned, this will prevent the seal from making contact with the door frame in a appropriate manner, in return, causing a slight leak during the wash.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
Rotate the door seal
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the unit leaks during use with a constant drip from the 6 o'clock location between the seal and the glass on the door the solution is to change tha door seal. it is quite difficult to do I would recommend you call a local service company.
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
Remove the top panel, the control panel, the toe panel, and the front panel to replace the door gasket. Disconnect power to the washer before servicing to avoid electric shock.
Remove the top panel by removing the top cover and the three 7-mm hex-head screws that attach the rear of the top panel to the cabinet. Remove the top cover by removing the three Phillips-head screws that hold it in place then insert a putty knife blade or similar tool along the top seam between the cover and the control panel. Lightly tap the cover off rearward; slide the top panel rearward then lift it off the cabinet.
Pull the dispenser drawer out until it stops; push down the locking tab, and then pull the dispenser drawer all the way out. Once the drawer is out, remove the Phillips-head screw from the recess of the drawer opening.
Remove the four Phillips-head screws that attach the control panel to the control panel cover. Release the tab on the right side of the control panel from the bracket inside the cabinet.
Lift the top edge of the control panel to release the three tabs that hold its top in place. Push the control panel towards the left, then release the side tab.
Label the wires and mark the connectors matching the wires before disconnecting the wires from the control panel.
Remove the three Phillips-head screws at the bottom of the toe panel holding it to the cabinet, then pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.
Open the washer door, then remove the three Phillips-head screws holding the door switch and lock assembly to the front panel.
The door gasket is held to the lip of the door opening by a wire and a spring hidden in the fold of gasket. Grasp the wire at the spring location using a pair of needle-nose pliers and stretch the spring to clear the gasket, and then remove the wire and spring assembly. Peel off the door gasket from the lip of the door opening into the drum.
Remove the four Phillips-head screws that secure the front panel on its four corners to the cabinet. Lift up the front panel then remove it from the two hooks and all the way off the cabinet.
Pull down the top of the gasket, and then remove the nozzle from the gasket. Remove the gasket from the water inlet pipe, and then loosen the 7-mm bolt that tightens the wire holding the gasket to the outer tub lip. Take note of the position of the gasket, and then remove it and the wire from the lip of the outer tub.
Install the new gasket into the lip of the outer tub aligning the notch in the gasket with the arrow located on the top of the lip of the outer tub, and then secure it with the wire and the bolt. Do not over tighten the wire with the bolt. Allow a gap of about 1.25 inches between the ends of the wire. Over tightening the wire may tear the gasket.
Insert the nozzle into the gasket ensuring that the washer is placed on the outside and that the nozzle is aligned with the dent on the inside of the gasket. Insert the water inlet pipe into the gasket, and then put the gasket inside the drum.
Reinstall the front panel back into position on the hooks then secure it to the cabinet with the four Phillips-head screws.
Slide the toe panel up into the cabinet then secure it with the three Phillips-head screws.
Reconnect the wires to the control panel. Snap the control panel back into the cabinet, and then secure it with the screw at the recess of the drawer opening.
Slide the top panel back in place then secure its rear with the three 7mm hex-head screws to the cabinet. Reinstall the top cover and secure it the three Phillips-head screws.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
SOURCE: Door leak
A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.
Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 31, 2016 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Mar 15, 2013 | Neff Dishwashers
Aug 17, 2010 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer
Jul 20, 2010 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer
Apr 21, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Jan 03, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet Sport HT WFW8400TE Washer
Jan 25, 2009 | Whirlpool 24 in. GU1200XT Built-in...
Dec 04, 2008 | Maytag 24 in. MDB8600AW Jetclean II...
Dec 27, 2007 | Kenmore 24 in. 16022 Built-in Dishwasher
607 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: