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Something must be broken if the motor is turning and the planetary is not. It will be one of the following, we will start from the first point of contact with the armature
1) Worm gear broken (fuse gear) you say no teeth broken
2) Worm gear not broken but whole unbroken plastic part not gripping aluminium boss
3) Pin through worm gear broken or missing
4) Pin through centre (or bevel) gear broken or missing
5) Pin through small gear in planetary broken or missing
6) Pin through planetary hub centre shaft broken or missing
The most common ones in order of likelihood are, 1, 2, 3 and 6
The problem will be with the worm gear, if the gear is not stripped then check that the locating pin for the worm gear is not broken or missing. Occasionally the plastic gear can detach from the aluminium boss between plastic and shaft. The worm gear is the 99.9% place where drive can slip. Afterthought, I suppose the planetary pin is not missing or broken??
The bevel gear sits above the worm-follower gear. I think you mean the drive attachment gear.
I think I have the same, or similar problem. I ground a piece of meat that stopped it from working. The drive-attachment-gear turns if I push it in, but then it pops out. I am still trying to figure out what part is causing the issue - the drive attachment gear, or maybe even the worm follower gear.
I belieive i"ve found what you need at -the gourmet depot.net-click on worm gears on the list on left side of page,parts with pictures and listings will come up.I think you will want the kp50 series 5 parts
Hi, JSTEWART431, are you sure it’s the motor or could it be the transmission gears where the noise is coming from?Are you sure it's the motor or could it be the transmission? It 'sounds' like you've got some transmission gear issues.It could be as simple as through normal use the gears have shifted slightly in the transmission and the gear teeth are making different contact, hence the grinding noise. The higher the speed, the louder, higher pitched sound you'll get. Alas, the noise may also be indicative of a potential gear failure, similar to my wife’s mixer where the mixer’s increasing noisiness finally ended with a broken tooth on the bevel gear and the mixer 'froze'. If you are DITY type person, feel adventurous, and your mixer is not under warranty you can troubleshoot it yourself.Be sure you have the Parts List manual on hand.If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides>Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use KSM90P, and select the first file listed under Parts List (16) and then check to verify this matches your mixer model. Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled: Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. Locate Illus. No. 36, Worm Gear Bracket & Gear, including Illus. No. 7, Worm Gear.I suspect this is the weak link in your mixer’s transmission and causing the problems. After clearing all the grease away, check to see if the gear is just loose, exceedingly worn or broken.If it’s worn or broken you can order a replacement part and install it yourself.While you’ve got your mixer this far apart you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the on the gears and other components. Besides a replacement gear, and grease you might consider replacing the gasket, too. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). The next possibility to check would be with the motor itself, but electric motors are pretty simple mechanisms and generally don't fail.Using the parts list, you can see what needs to be inspected and determine if any motor parts need replacement. (Generally only brushes wear out, but I don’t think that would cause your grinding sound.) Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com. You should search for ‘food grade grease’. Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping. It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your mixer yourself. Finally, here’s a link to an excellent site for disassembling/fixing your KA Mixer: http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm and another link to a site that details the disassembly and replacement of mixer’s grease, which might be helpful, too. http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html If you feel troubleshooting and repairing is beyond your capability, then I would seek out a local small appliance repair shop in your area. KA Customer Care can give you names of local KA authorized repair shops in your area, but you can also do an online search to supplement what KA may provide you. Call to explain your circumstances and find out their hourly rate and get an estimate of what they think it would cost to repair your mixer. Also, always obtain three or more estimates – do some comparison shopping. Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln
Disassembly and inspection is the only way to verify what it is. It sounds like you are correct. I have bought parts very reasonably on line and repaired our K/A mixer. The better sites ( I think I used appliancerepair.com) have exploded diagrams. If you are tearing into yours, these are invaluable, and when you get to the broken part, you'll have a name for it.
I just ran into this problem when the PLASTIC worm gear broke and then the mixer would not power on after I replaced the gear. The problem was due to the was I tried to dissasemble the mixer. I removed the two plastic screws near the top center of the mixer when attempting to disassemble. These do not have anything to do with the assembly it turns out the attached square pieces (attached to these screws by springs) must be in the proper orientation to run. I put them in the way it showed in a diagram but it did not work until I tried all four different combinations that they could be rotated. Two of the rotations on the square could be eliminated by closely looking at the end where it contacts the shaft. The round shaft marking will be evident on the square inserts. I'mnotsure how to better describe them, but the are attached by springs to the plastic screws on both sides of the top of the mixer.