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Maytag neptune mah3000aww starts then stops right away

I have a maytag neptune mah3000aww. When I push the start button the machine starts for about 2 seconds then shuts off. what could be the problem?

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: stops between cycles

sounds like a bad motor control board. It is located at the front rt bottom and will probably show a burnt spot in it or the fuse will be blown. You must replace motor kit.

Posted on Jan 05, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: my washer Maytag Neptune Model

i don't remember the solution, becuase it wasn't the shut off problem I am having (mine shuts off after 5 minutes) but google search of "maytag neptune shuts off" or somesuch should find you the solution.

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: My maytag neptune MAH3000aww washing won't go into

most common issue with these is the door lock assy. You need to remove the control panel and check the R11 resistor on the board most likely it will be burnt. This was a common issue a few years back. If the R11 resistor is burnt you need to replace the door lock AND control board or your problem will occur again.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

tunde007
  • 2382 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune, MAH3000aww Clothes Washer:

Hi, If the washer fills, but won't spin or drain, you may have a defective lid switch. This is a very common problem and a very common symptom.

Let me guess: The washer fills, agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle it just stops. On some models the washer will fill and then shut off. Am I explaining your symptoms correctly?

If so, this what you need to do:

Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" noise. The contacts on the switch should close when the lid is shut, allowing the washer timer to run. This is a designed safety feature that prevents the washer from agitating or spinning with the lid open (don't need to lose any fingers). If you don't hear the switch, it may have come loose, or has broken.
Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the tub rim. There will be a slot where the lid strike pushes down on the lid switch. Make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece) is still present on the lid. This can prevent the washer from working as well and make it seem like a huge problem.
On some models the lid switch is located near the left-hand lid hinge under the washer casing. A small rod on the lid hinge activates the switch contacts.

If you determine the need to replace the switch, follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Posted on Nov 26, 2010

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most common issue with these is the door lock assy. You need to remove the control panel and check the R11 resistor on the board most likely it will be burnt. This was a common issue a few years back. If the R11 resistor is burnt you need to replace the door lock AND control board or your problem will occur again.

Hope this helps _MJ_

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