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This is dependant on the manner in which your unit is installed. In a normal system, there is nothing that would cause this except debris in the water line. If you have a water heater that is a tankless variety or other supplemental connected systems, you will have to reset those due to lack of water pressure tripping a safety feature to prevent overheating.
Has nothing to do with the expansion tank, the expansion tank whole enough air so that when the heater heats the water it does not build up pressure. You know from school that you can compress ait. you CAN NOT compress water. When you haet water it expands until it turns to steam. So lets rule that out.
First look at all the plumbing in the house where there is a cross conection. This would be like a shower valve that has a personal shower head on it. and you turn of the water using the personal shower handle and not the valve at the wall. This then would let cold water to go into the hot water side piping.
Most people do that with out knowing it at the laundry sink. they put a hose on to was the dog and forget to turn off the faucet and then BANG cold water in the hot side.
Go around the house and turn off all the faucets and valves by using the handles. no add on things.
Now last could be the shower valve itself. . Do this happen in just one shower or all of them???
If its just the one and you spend the day doing the walk around, even check the bidet if you have one
When a tankless is installed, they are usually set up with a recirc. Theis keeps the water continuously heating to some degree.
When a tankless is installed into a home it has nothing to heat the water that is sitting in the pipe from its faucet to its heat source. Now as soon as you turn on the faucet, you have to let all that cold water run out until the newly heated water comes out from when you started the faucet.
You could measure the volume until heat and it will be pretty much the same every time for a given faucet.
The fact that your faucets are low flo is only part of the factor involving time it takes to get hot water. Another factor is volume. The diameter of your pipes makes a difference. You can remove the low flo restrictor from the faucet farthest away to speed up the process at least a little.
it is because the tub has a temp control valve in it so if you were to put more cold with the hot it will last longer but still won't be all the way hot,, now a days people are suing the manifacture because they are getting burned form the hot water so they put these saftey temp controls in place of the old style 2 or 3 handle faucets,, there fo no more real hot water nothing you can do outside of change to the othere type of faucet 2 or 3 handle tub shower diverter,, that why the water is hot in the sink but not the tub.....
this is a problem they didn;t tell any one about, there is a min of 1 gpm that you have to run for it to sence for the unit to come on, if not the unit will not detect the water is even runnig there for will not come on,, as for the kit faucet, it might have a temp control and it may need to have a cartridge change, the water comming from the tankless is nothing like the old tank heater, the water only losses aprox 1 or 2 degree where a tank heater losses almost 5 or more because of the way the cold water is fed into the unit,, thats whay the sprayer works and the faucet doesn't ,, you have control on the sprayer unlike turning the faucet on,,
you probibly ran the hot water tank out of hot water shut off the hot water comming out of your fausets for a few hours and check it again u could also try to reset your tank by pulling off the front cover and hitting the reset button and my last thought is sadly you burnt out your heating elements and they need to be replaced good luck man
Its A Possibility The Left Over Water In The Hot Is Frozen. If Your Line Is Exposed Outside Somewhere It Can Easily Freeze Up. Turn On The Hot Water Everywhere In The House And If Accessible Check The Lines To See Where The Warmth Ends. You Can Leave One Off Over Night In Hopes That It Will Eventually Defrost.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?