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Bearings need replacing on variable speed pulley.got them out,but can't seem to find the center retainer? bushing.it's 2 ''9/16 in length and 1/2'' Outside D.the mower is a troy built Ltx1842.Model#13AP609G063.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Just bought this mower ran great when i picked it up...lol.When i got it home i had to push it about 50 yards to my shed.Needs battery,put on charge.Get up next day and cut around 4 rows.Then it just stopped.lol.Looked belts over and the lower? drive belt looked like it had seen better days.They are a boger to change your first time.Two days later i get the belt and in the process of the belt change i notice the VSPully is freezing up.So i ignore it,maybe it will go away.lol.Not so much,hour later and same thing mower cutting great then it just stops moving.No foward or reverse,but it still running and cutting great.Just need to hook something like my truck or my kids power wheel to the front to pull me around the rest of the yard.?New pulley is around 150$$.The mower is a fighter 4 sure.No way it's making me buy that to.The belts where 60bucks.That's not counting what i paid for the mower.After having it for 4 days it's got me worried if it's worth keeping if this keeps it going long enough to finish the yard.I may just..pass it on to some one else..lol

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I looked at the IPL on precisionope.com. It does not look like Troybilt breaks down the pulley into separate components. You may have to find an older hardware store, mom and pop type, to find this retainer, or a michine shop to make you one.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Model 13AX60KH011 how to change lower drive belt


Oh this one is fun to do (not).

  • Remove Deck so you access to underside of the frame.
  • Remove battery and battery tray.
  • Unhook the spring on the idler for the variable speed pulley to transmission belt. Take a fairly strong spring hook tool to do this.
  • Remove the six bolts holding the transaxle in so you can lower it to remove the transmission belt and then remove the engine to variable speed pulley belt.
  • Now loosen the two idlers on the engine to variable speed belt engagement pulley assembly so you can get the belt off them.
  • At the engine remove the center bolt holding on the stack pulley so you lower it to remove the belt.
  • Reassemble in reverse order.
  • Make you tighten the stack pulley center bolt to 55 ft-lbs.
  • Also use OEM spec belts only. No off the wall versions as they will give you nothing but trouble on MTDs.
And the customer wonders why we (the repair shops) charge so much to do this.

May 03, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

I need the timing marks for belt replacement on the 1.6L SOHC 1990 Geo Prizm


1.6 engine, timing belt. 4A not 4AF. F = twin cam.
V.I.N. code 6 not 5, the 5is twin cam 4AFE twin.
the car is a Corolla, and as such info is easy to find on toys,
so that the engine real name is.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A

so you dont want all the facts? marks and how to set tension correctly? really? at #12 and 18?
getting all this right, makes it GO 60k more miles, (a fact)

the words.
  1. Remove the timing belt covers using procedures described earlier in this section.
  2. If not done as part of the cover removal, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the TDC/compression position for No. 1 cylinder.
  3. Loosen the timing belt idler pulley to relieve the tension on the belt, move the pulley away from the belt and temporarily tighten the bolt to hold it in the loose position.
  4. Make matchmarks on the belt and both pulleys showing the exact placement of the belt. Mark an arrow on the belt showing its direction of rotation.
  5. Carefully slip the timing belt off the pulleys.
  6. dont move cam, with belt off it warns.
  7. Remove the idler pulley bolt, pulley and return spring.
  8. Use an adjustable wrench mounted on the flats of the camshaft to hold the cam from moving. Loosen the center bolt in the camshaft timing pulley and remove the pulley.
  9. Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of cracking or deterioration. Pay particular attention to the area where each tooth or cog attaches to the backing of the belt. If the belt shows signs of damage, check the contact faces of the pulleys for possible burrs or scratches.
  10. Check the idler pulley by holding it in your hand and spinning it. It should rotate freely and quietly. Any sign of grinding or abnormal noise indicates replacement of the pulley.
  11. Check the free length of the tension spring. Correct length is 38.5mm measured at the inside faces of the hooks. A spring which has stretched during use will not apply the correct tension to the pulley; replace the spring.
  12. If you can test the tension of the spring, look for 8.4 lbs. of tension at 50mm of length. If in doubt, replace the spring.
  13. Reinstall the camshaft timing belt pulley, making sure the pulley fits properly on the shaft and that the timing marks align correctly. Tighten the center bolt to 43 ft. lbs.
  14. Before reinstalling the belt, double check that the crank and camshafts are exactly in their correct positions. The alignment mark on the end of the camshaft bearing cap should show through the small hole in the camshaft pulley and the small mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should align with the mark on the oil pump.
  15. Reinstall the timing belt idler pulley and the tension spring. Pry the pulley to the left as far as it will go and temporarily tighten the retaining bolt. This will hold the pulley in its loosest position.
  16. Install the timing belt, observing the matchmarks made earlier. Make sure the belt is fully and squarely seated on the upper and lower pulleys.
  17. Loosen the retaining bolt for the timing belt idler pulley and allow it to tension the belt.
  18. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crank clockwise 2 full revolutions from TDC to TDC. Insure that each timing mark realigns exactly.
  19. Tighten the timing belt idler pulley retaining bolt to 27 ft. lbs.
  20. Measure the timing belt deflection (Tool 23600 B or similar), looking for 5-6mm of deflection at 4.4 pounds of pressure. If the deflection is not correct, readjust the idler pulley by repeating steps 15 through 18.
  21. Remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft.
  22. Install the timing belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the lower timing belt cover.
  23. Continue reassembly of the timing belt covers as outlined previously in this section.


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Mar 26, 2015 | 1990 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Dremel rotary tool variable speed, low speed speeds up after short use. Will brush replacement solve this issue?


How stable is your line voltage? The SCR phase control used for speed control is more sensitive to line voltage changes at low speeds than at high speeds. Brushes should be changed when they are worn down to about 1/2 of their original length. Much more than this and they don't have enough tension to properly contact the commutator ring. Check with power off when the tool is cold and slowly turn the chuck by hand to feel the resistance. Run it a while and let the bearings warm up. Turn off power and turn by hand again. If it feels looser when warm (which would cause it to speed up at slow speeds), the tool might need to be disassembled and bearings oiled. I use Dexron automatic transmission fluid to lube most motors. Wipe down any excess.

Nov 14, 2014 | Dremel Variable - Speed Multipro Rotary...

1 Answer

What does the A/C pulley and bracket diagram look like?


there is a bush that goes on the inside of the pulley bearing and the flange for that bush goes against the bracket. On the other side is a flat washer that retains the pulley on the shaft and either a spring washer and nut or a nyloc nut goes against that flat washer

May 11, 2014 | Isuzu Rodeo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Adjusting variable speed pulley in riding lawnmower


check the other variable pulley on the other end

Apr 06, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

I have a Troy Bilt Bronco (2006) - model 13AO77TG766 which needs a new transmission drive belt. So I bought the right one at Lowes. I can access the largest pulley somewhat by taking out the battery and...


a 1/2 inch impact is the solution. with enough air pressure you should be able to loosen the nut no problem while holding on to the pulley with your other hand. it is a standard thread so ccwise to loosen. you should be able to get the top belt on the variable speed pulley. usually have to loosen the variable speed pulley assembly when replacing lower drive belt. i hope this helps you out

Aug 15, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

2003 chevy suburban 1500 i replace my tensioner pulley and belt for my a/c compressor and now my tensioner is rocking back and forth and the truck idels hard when the a/c or heat is on


The tensioner is not set or aligned properly.
Rocked back and forth  this means the pivot bushing has worn down.
Tensioner Arm Misalignment
This may appear as metal-to-metal contact between
the arm and spring housing, and will be indicated by
shiny, smooth streaks or gouges in the metal.
Misalignment also is likely if the arm can be vertically
rocked back and forth. This means the pivot
bushing has worn down.
Idler Bearing Wear
With the engine off and the belt removed, manually
rotate the tensioner pulley. Noise or resistance
when turning the pulley could indicate bearing
failure. Check for play in the bearing by rocking the
pulley. It should only pitch very slightly. If noise,
resistance or excessive play is found, replace the
pulley.
-----------
Excessive Tensioner Arm Movement
With the engine running, observe the back and forth
sway of the tensioner arm. If it exceeds 1/2” of
movement, or moves continually, the damping
system has failed. This movement can reduce the
life of the tensioner, belt and component bearings.
The tensioner should be replaced.
------------
Improper Belt Tracking
With the engine running, inspect the belt and tensioner pulley. If the belt
is not properly tracking in the center of the pulley, the tensioner could be misaligned. This also can be a sign of a bent bracket or misaligned components. Check the drive components and repair if necessary.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jun 07, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Viberation in drive line truck has 7 u joints, replaced the 2 rear ones,vibe still there,but somewhat better. the rest of the seem to be ok is there a different shaft that would fit? at $50.00 a joint it...


Did you change the carrier bearing. It will be cheap compared to a transmission and new drive shaft. Got 1 in my shop right now. Customer did not listen. Check that carrier bearing Cost $1350vs $50

On vehicles covered by this information that are equipped with a two-piece rear driveshaft assembly, the center support bearing may be removed for replacement. To be sure if your driveshaft may be serviced, check with your local parts supplier or dealer for parts availability information.
  1. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft assembly. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  2. Remove the strap retaining the rubber cushion from the bearing support.
  3. Pull the support bracket from the rubber cushion and the cushion from the bearing.
  4. Press the bearing assembly from the halfshaft.

To install:
  1. Assemble the center support bearing to the driveshaft:
    1. If removed, install the inner deflector onto the front shaft half and ***** punch the deflector at 2 opposite points to make sure it is tight on the shaft.
    2. Fill the space between the inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease.
    3. Start the bearing and slinger assembly straight onto the shaft journal. Support the shaft and using a length of pipe over the splined end of the shaft, press the bearing and inner slinger against the shoulder of the front shaft half.
    4. Install the bearing retainer, the rubber cushion onto bearing, the bracket onto the cushion and the retaining strap.

  2. Align and install the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle.

Oct 21, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Ground speed slows under pull at high variable speed settings.


Take off the plate around the shift lever between your legs and take a look at the belts. Most likely they will be in poor condition. You can even leave the trans in neutral, start the engine and move the speed selector through the gears and observe the belts in action. They do the same in neutral as in gear when you let out the clutch with the engine running. You should be able to see what the problem is, It will either be one or both of the belts or possibly the needle bearings in the vari-speed pulley itself,

Jun 01, 2009 | Mtd Garden

1 Answer

Belts slipping and breaking


If you are putting on the mtd belts and installing them right then you need to check bearings in variable speed pulley Also check idler and that no other pulley has been bent from installation.

May 15, 2009 | Garden

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