How can you make your conditioner cool to 40 degrees

7000kw up to 12x12 room

if you have it set at 60 F and it is working at 65 to 68 F then that would be about right
as the air is cooled the cold air falls to the floor and out under the door, open window or anywhere else it can escape
the unit has to be at 80% room height so if it is set in a window then when the cold air gets up to the thermostat or ac level in the window then it will stop cooling
So if the ac unit is say 4ft from the floor and the ceiling height is 8 ft then the ac will only cool the bottom 4 ft
cold air does not rise but falls down
if you are using a ceiling fan then the cold air is stirred up and the 65F sounds about right
remember that the setting temp ( what you set it at) is the lowest temp that it will go down to before it stops cooling and if that is not reached it will keep working to attain that temp and if the room is too big, air leaks under door . around the fit in the window , no insulated walls , hot exterior wall,etc then maybe 65 F is the best you will get

7000 btu is very small unit for a small bed room 150 square feet apx.

Take it back where you bought it. A 12,000 BTU unit should be more than enough for a 192 square foot room, so there is some problem with the unit.

hello. I can help you. There are several possible reasons for your problem Here they are. Read them over and it will give you insights into how your A/C works.

Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? Is the compressor motor running? The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It is located inside the air conditioner at the center. Is it humming or making any kind of continuous noise or causing the lights to dim? If it is making a continuous noise, and your air conditioner is still not cooling at all, there may be a serious problem with one or more of these areas:

• Compressor
  
  
• Condenser
  
  
• Evaporator
  
  

These items are not user serviceable. You will need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician to repair these components.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the air conditioner there may be a problem in one or more of these areas:

• Compressor
  
  
• Overload and/or relay
  
  
• Thermostat (Open thermostat)
  
  
• Burnt wiring
  
  
• Bad selector switch
  
  
• Capacitor
  
  

The air is cool but doesn't seem cold enough If the air doesn't seem cool enough it is necessary to use a thermometer to check the difference in temperature between the air going into the unit and the air being blown into the room. Ideally, the temperature difference should be more than 15 degrees. For example, if the temperature going into the air conditioner is 80 degrees, the temperature coming out of the unit should be at least 65 degrees or less. If the difference is 15 degrees or more there is probably no cause for concern. If the temperature difference is less than 15 degrees you should check the following:

• Air damper
  
  

Check to make sure the air damper is closed. If it's open, it will bring in outside air and reduce the efficiency of the unit.

• Back cover
  
  

During the winter season many people cover their air conditioners to protect the unit from the weather. In the spring or summer they will sometimes forget to remove the cover. If your unit has a cover on the outside portion of the air conditioner remove the cover first.

• Condensing coils
  
  

The condensing coils will always be on the "warm" side of the air conditioner. That is, on the side that faces outside of the room to be cooled. Air is drawn into the back of the air conditioner on the sides through vent slots and is blown directly out through the condenser coils. If the coils get clogged with lint, dust and dirt the cooling system cannot provide the cooling necessary. To clean the coils it will be necessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioner or pull it out of the wall to gain access to the coils. They can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so the condensate water will be picked up by the condensing fan slinger properly.

Drop in a Frigidaire 25,000 btu, 230-volt Electronic Control Air Conditioner (Model #FAS256R2A). It is Way More Cooling than you need, but it is a very efficient unit and will provide quiet, nearly instantaneous room temprature reduction! Width 26-1/2... Height 18-5/8... Wall Sleeve Included... about $450.

Maybe, the compressor isn't starting? I'd take it back to where you purchased it.

This may sound dumb but ( 1) Do you have the warm air from the unit to the exterior of the space? If the condenser is in the space your putting the heat your trying to remove right back into the space. ( 2 ) There should be an air supply and an air return in the space only. With that there should be a temperature difference of 16 to 20 degrees between the supply and return. ( 3 )A 1 ton unit usually will cool approximately 400 square feet. ( 4 ) It may take a while to pull the space temp down due to pulling the heat and moisture from the ceiling, walls, and floor. This could take 6 hours or more the first time you use the system in a space.

you may have a factory defective unit that is not turning off the anti-frost heating coil (I have assumed yours contains this item based on your problem description). I would trade it in for a new unit, again assuming you have a warranty or the store offers a good in-store return policy. If this plan bombs, then open the unit and find the heating coil near the cool side of the radiator fins. then disconnect the power wires to the heater and prevent electrical short to wires with quality electrical tape.

Some units do cool/dehumidify only im afraid why cant you let the unit dump its hot air into the room then it wont heat or cool the room?