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Engine will not turn over using pull rope how can i tell if it is locked up

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I assume you have shut off the water supply and pressed the gun trigger to release any residual pressure in the washer line? Does this washer have an "unloader valve"? What was it doing when it stopped? Or did you just shut it down normally? Can you remove the pressure pump itself from the front or the bottom of the engine? It should slide onto a keyed shaft, the crankshaft of the engine, and secure to the engine housing with around 4 to 6 bolts. In the alternative, you could take the "blower housing", the part that has the recoil in side, there are usually three bolts, 7/16" head, that hold that housing on the engine. After removing that and insuring that the recoil and pull rope will indeed pull out and retract, you can try grasping the recoil "dog" by the shaft that will be facing you, it should turn one way easily, counterclockwise, and ratchet about, try grasping that with lockgrips and "easing" the shaft through a clockwise turn. Don't force it. Light pressure should be all that is needed. If it won't turn, then you probably need to remove the "head", which is where the spark plug installs, there should be about 8 to 10 bolts holding that on, and see if you can observe any damage to the piston top, rings, ect. It may have a stuck valve, or could have seeped water into the cylinder head, and rusted frozen, if you haven't used it in a while, or it could be seized from lack of oil, lubrication, bent crank, broken connecting rod, broken rings, ect. In the absence of knowing what it was doing last, running, died suddenly, loud noises, ect., it is hard to say. I have had small engines seize up from rust, and lack of oil, and have freed them, and repaired the damage, rings, ect, and they are still in use. By unloading the pump pressure, and releasing any residual pressure on the pump, or removing that, and attempting to turn the shaft, you should be readily able to tell if the engine is indeed "locked up". Use caution when clamping onto the shafts, both the crankshaft at the pump side, and the recoil "dog" on the start side, in order to not burr or bend or scar the face of these shafts. It should not take a lot of force to move the piston through it's cycle. Can you advise as to what the washer was doing when it stopped? Or did you just shut it down? This would be helpful to determine what may or may not be your problems. With a correct amount of oil in the engine, and no obvious external pressures to stop the crankshaft from turning, these small engines usually do not seize, and other than carburation problems, or fouled plugs, tend to have long service lives. Please let us know what it was doing when it quit, or what you may have heard or seen when you last shut it down. or if it just quit on it's own. Can better advise when I know what the last cycles were. Look forward to hearing more. Kindest regards, Slats.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

Testimonial: "very helpful, thank you. yhis washer was working ok when last used. it has oil, and was not making any unusual noise. I expected it to start. "

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I purchased a 14" &20" chainsaw Model 8901/8902 and I am having difficulty pulling cord. It seems to lock. What could be the problem?


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Replace pull cord on troy-bilt tb70ss


Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, ou will have to lock up the engine. Remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the bottom of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or something so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers ranging from T-15 to T-25

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I need to get the clutch off my jonsered chainsaw, how do i?


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I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used as a piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.

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1 Answer

R\r the pull rope spring assy


Hello:

>>The Following is a General Instruction File I Made to Perform this Repair. If you have Any Suggestions or Remarks, then Please Let me Know. Thanks.
>>**Remove the Boom/Shaft from the Engine. Remove the Mounting Bolts and the Boom and Center Drive Shaft should Slide Away from the Starter Housing Assembly.
>>**On Some Model Trimmers, there is a Torx Screw Inside the Coupling Drive that has to be Removed.
>>****There is also a Locking Screw on the Side of the Housing that is a Anti-Vibration Lock.****
>>Using the Breakdown as a Guide Remove the Starter Housing Assembly from the Engine Assembly.
>>Now Carefully/Slowly Remove the Pressure Plate Assembly from the Starter Housing.
>>The Spring May have Broken and Sometimes a Section will Jump Out when the Pressure Plate Assembly is Removed from the Starter Housing. When it Jumps, it Pushes the Recoil Pulley Out Also.
>>Look at the Direction of the Coil of the Spring in the Housing and Make an Arrow in the Direction of the Coil with a Magic Marker on the Inside of the Housing.
>>Remove the Broken Spring and Clean the Housing with Spray Lubrication. You can Use Solvent if Required, Just be Sure to Wipe it Before Assembly with Spray Lubricant. The New Spring should come with a Retainer that Holds it in a Circle.
>>If you have Removed the Spring from the Retainer, then Use a Piece of Plastic Pipe About 2" Long that is the Same Inside Diameter as the Retainer (Slightly Smaller than the Recess that the Spring Coils Into if you Lost the Retainer).
>>Coil the Spring Into the Pipe and then Set the Spring Into the Recess. Make Sure the Spring Tab of the Spring Engages the Spring Lock in the Recess.
>>Use a Socket to Hold the Spring in Place and Pull the Pipe Out of the Recess.
>>Lock the Pulley in Place.
>>Now Turn the Pulley in the Same Direction that the Pulley would Turn if the Rope was Turning it.
>>Once the Pulley will Turn No More, then Reverse Direction 1 or 2 Turns and Thread the New Rope Through the Hole in the Center of the Pulley and Out the Hole in the Blower Housing.
>>Pull the Rope Through Until it is Tight Against the Pulley. Now Tie a Slip Knot in the Rope to Hold the Pulley in Place While the Handle is Attached to the Rope.
>>Once the Handle is Attached, Release the Slip Knot and the Rope Should Retract Into the Housing. Reassemble the Blower Housing Onto the Engine.
>>On Some Models you May have to Install the Rope Before you Lock the Pulley in Place. If So, there is a U in the Pulley that the Rope is Held in While Turning the Pulley to Tighten the Spring.
The Following is a "General" "Chainsaw Clutch Removal" File. **To Hold the Crankshaft for Removal of the Clutch; Purchase a Bolt that is 3" to 4" Long and has the Same Diameter and Threads as the Spark Plug. Carefully Insert the Bolt Into the Engine Until it Contacts the Piston. If the Bolt is too Short, then Slowly Turn the Engine in the Same Direction you are Going to be Turning the Clutch Until the Piston Contacts the Bolt. Now to Remove the Clutch. If you do Not have the Clutch Tool for an Impact Wrench and are Doing this By Hand (no air compressor and/or not the correct socket), then Use a 2" Wide, Flat Chisel and a Shop Hammer or a 22oz Hammer and Hit the Outer Part of the Thick Ear in the Same Direction that the Engine Turns During Operation.**
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

May 15, 2009 | Garden

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