Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

My dryer won'y blow hot air

After checking all the heating components resistance (Thermal Cut-Off, Heater Element, High Limit Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, and Thermistor) with an Ohm meter, I am still having a problem with the dryer not heating properly. I have checked the exaust temp and it will not get above 120 degree which is the range between Extra Low and Low. From the Tech Sheet I found attached inside the dryer it should be heating closer to 150 degrees when the temp setting is on high. Have any suggestions.

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  • bpaul Dec 18, 2007

    Bob,
    I removed the heating element and noticed that a portion had shorted out and turned Black. So I have order a replacement heating element.

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2 Answers

Bob, I did not lie, I just checked the heating element orginally with an Olm meter while the element was still installed in the dryer. After more reading on the internet and testing I decide to remove the heating element and noticed it had the short.

Posted on Dec 18, 2007

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  • Master
  • 833 Answers

Bpaul...first, check to see if you have full power to the unit. These units run on 220 volts which involves two breakers linked together...my guess is one popped and you're running on 110. You'll get some functions but not full heat. Turn the breakers off and back on. Not it? Then check for lint in the piping which is causing a false reading on your temp sensor.

Posted on Dec 18, 2007

  • Robert Hirst Dec 18, 2007

    b...you lied about the heating elements! Glad you got it.

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Replace fuse dryer model GEQ8821LLO


Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You never explained what the problem was. Dryer not running? No heat? Dryer shutting down. It could be as simple as cleaning out your dryer hot air distribution manifold. A dryer will not run if you do not have good air flow due to lint blockage. A dryer will not run if you have a bad door switch. You can Ohm components out with a multi-meter, setting the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You should get a reading of "0" if the component is good.


1.) Dryer Door Switch - This switch replaces your dryer door's switch.
  • You may need to remove your dryer's lint screen and lint screen housing before lifting its top panel to reach its existing switch.
  • Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
This Dryer Door Switch part #3406107 Cost $20.00

25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-0.jpg

Dryer Door Switch - Unplug the dryer before replacing the door switch.
This Dryer Door Switch part #279782 Cost: $22.00


Thermal Cut-Off- This component is located on your heating element housing,. you may be able to access it at your hot air distribution manifold in the back of your unit.
  • When replacing your dryer's fuse, replace its thermostat, too. The thermostat should have prevented the dryer's existing fuse from blowing. The high-limit thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the thermal cut-off fuse to 360 degrees (Fahrenheit).
  • Install the fuse in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation

  • Part #: 3977394 Cost: $33.00
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-9.jpg Cost: $34.00
    The high-limit thermostat replaces your dryer's thermostat.
    • The thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit).
    • Install the thermostat in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
    This High-Limit Thermostat part #3390291
    Hot Air Distribution Manifold:
    This is in the back of your dryer and easily unbolted. If you are plugged up with lint your unit will shut down. Remove this component and clean the lower discharge end.
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-14.jpg So, tell me what the problem is, and I will tell you how to fix it.

    Peter,
    Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

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    check heating coils, high limit, temp selector switch.

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    The thermal cut-off located on the heater housing is likely blown. It blows if there's an issue with clogged ducts and/or faulty high-limit thermostat. These components including the cycling thermostat on the blower housing are wired in series with the heating element and power to the heating element is terminated if one of them, usually the thermal cut-off, cuts or blows open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

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    Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


    The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

    Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    jahn27_42.jpg
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    jahn27_43.jpg
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    Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

    The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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    The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

    You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

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    jahn27_43.jpg

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    jahn27_42.jpg
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    jahn27_43.jpg
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    4. Internal Bias Thermostat
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    You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

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