I have checked safety switch, power switch, and thermal breaker for continuity. The only switch in question could be the temperature control, but I am not sure how to troubleshoot it, other than to turn it completely off. There is 120 at the end of the power cord, so I am at a loss. I am an amateur, so take it easy on me.
Solution for fixing DP16 Cordset for GE deep fryers:
To begin with, you willl need to clean the electrical contacts on both the fryer and the cordset. They will be burnt from electricity arcing between the two when the cord is plugged into an outlet before connecting to the deep fryer.
I used a dremel tool attachement grinder used for sharpening chain saw chains. It is cylindrical and fits in the holes in the cordset perfectly. You could use sandpaper rolled into a small cylinder, or whatever is available that will do the job. To open the flaps that cover the holes, insert a toothpick in the center hole of the cordset while you work. Make sure that both sets of contacts are completely clean before proceeding with the next step.
Next, using needle nose plyers, make two tight coils of fine or extra fine (.032") resin core solder the same size as the holes in the cordeset. Press into place in each of the holes in the cordset against the electrical contacts. Spread the coils a little so they cannot fall out when the cordset is not attached to the fryer because the flaps will likely not close properly or at all. You can work the coils down so the flaps will close if you use the .032 solder, but they will still be a little loose, so they might jam the flaps open or partially open.
This definitly isn't a UL approved method, but it will fix the problem completely. Happy frying!
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Check fuse/breakers for tripped breaker or blown fuse. if ok, than unplug drier, remove back and check power connectors to cable, if ok check element connections for burning etc.. if ok remove one connector and check for continuity from element terminal to terminal. if ok than check thermal switches for continuity, if ok.. possible defective timer or inertia switch on motor, or belt tensioner switch..
All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.
The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.
You can look at something simple first. Do check the household power if you have fuses then maybe one can be blown if you have breakers switch off and back on if still no heat then you can look to a thermal link depending on the style of dryer if you have a back panel that is held on by 9 screws unplug the power cord from wall then you, will need a OHM meter and set to read Ohm's remove the wiring on the white 1 1/2 long plastic piece to see if you have a reading if no replace the thermal link. Then if good then unplug the wiring to the heating element and check for a reading good? Then put wires back on and up from the heating element there is a stat unplug take a reading if none replace the thermal cutoff kit. And after that being said if no back panel then you front type disassembly is different but check the same described items.
Check the circuit breaker for the dryer itself, one side of it may have tripped. Turn the dryer's breaker off, wait a moment, then turn it back on.
If the dryer was in the middle of a heating cycle, rather than a cool down cycle, then the heat coming off the element may have caused the thermal switch in the dryer to open since the fan / blower wasn't running. Usually, this switch will reset itself, but not all will.
Removing the back panel of the dryer, with the power cord UNPLUGGED and breaker TURNED OFF (Just in case), you should see 1 or 2 limit switches. They will likely appear to have brown or dark housings, and will be round or slighly diamond shaped. Use a multimeter to check for continuity across the switch. If the dryer is cold, you should have continuity. If you don't have continuity, then replace the thermal switch.
Try resetting the twin breakers in the house electrical box--push off, then on. If still nothing, check for ~230 volts AC across the two slanted slots in the power socket for the dryer. If zero or near, either one of the breakers is defective, or there is a wire open from a breaker to the power socket--likely near either end. If you read voltage at the socket, then the problem is internal to the dryer. First check is the door safety switch. It prevents any operation if not operated, or is defective.
That dishwasher has a thermal fuse that clips on the control board. The thermal fuse is a safety device, and nothing will run if it is blown. If there is no continuity through it, replace it. They run around $20-$30. If thats not it, remove the kick-plate and check the junction box for loose or fried wires where the wires are spliced together. Also check your house breaker box to make sure the breaker isn't tripped.
try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check element, timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor 2 heavy red wires (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element
Sounds like maybe a door switch, thermostat or the thermal fuse. You can check for continuity across the terminals with dryer unplugged. Usually the thermal fuse and thermostats are located by the heating element
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Look on the wiring diagram for the dryer. Follow black wire ( + side ) from plug to motor checking all devices in the circuit, also check for any on the white ( - side). Do all tests with the Electricity OFF. Safety first!!! Good luck. BpB