Question about GE 168952 Deep Fryer

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It does not power on.

I have checked safety switch, power switch, and thermal breaker for continuity. The only switch in question could be the temperature control, but I am not sure how to troubleshoot it, other than to turn it completely off. There is 120 at the end of the power cord, so I am at a loss. I am an amateur, so take it easy on me.

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Re: It does not power on.

Solution for fixing DP16 Cordset for GE deep fryers: To begin with, you willl need to clean the electrical contacts on both the fryer and the cordset. They will be burnt from electricity arcing between the two when the cord is plugged into an outlet before connecting to the deep fryer. I used a dremel tool attachement grinder used for sharpening chain saw chains. It is cylindrical and fits in the holes in the cordset perfectly. You could use sandpaper rolled into a small cylinder, or whatever is available that will do the job. To open the flaps that cover the holes, insert a toothpick in the center hole of the cordset while you work. Make sure that both sets of contacts are completely clean before proceeding with the next step. Next, using needle nose plyers, make two tight coils of fine or extra fine (.032") resin core solder the same size as the holes in the cordeset. Press into place in each of the holes in the cordset against the electrical contacts. Spread the coils a little so they cannot fall out when the cordset is not attached to the fryer because the flaps will likely not close properly or at all. You can work the coils down so the flaps will close if you use the .032 solder, but they will still be a little loose, so they might jam the flaps open or partially open. This definitly isn't a UL approved method, but it will fix the problem completely. Happy frying!

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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Re: It does not power on.

The cord is bad. We found that by jiggling the cord, the unit started to heat again. We are currently looking for a replacement cord for ours also.

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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Second, look for a safety interlock button or tab that might have been released when you took it apart for cleaning (these are rare, but it is possible), and make sure it goes back the way it's supposed to when you reassemble it.

Third, take it apart again and see if a flat spade-shaped wire terminal is pulled loose from the switch or some other part. You should be able to trace a wire from the power cord to the breaker (reset button), from there to the power switch, from the switch to the thermostat (unless it is part of the switch), then two wires, one going to the heater and the other to the indicator lamp. The other (white) wire from the power cord goes to the indicator lamp and the heater. Sometimes wires break if they are overstressed during disassembly, so keep an eye out for this while you examine the circuit.

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