My compressor comes on for about 2 seconds, then shuts off. I have replaced the capacitor, but it didnt help. When the compressor kicks on for the short time, i see bubbles in the glass looking almost foamy. After about 2 minutes it comes on again for 2 seconds and has bubbles again. I understand this mean its low of freon. I have a can of r22, the recommended coolant. My question is, "do I hold the can upright or upside down to add it"?
If the sight glass is foamy, stop what your doing, the system is contaminated with moisture. Chances are the compressor is gonna be toast. First reclaim the refrigerant, second replace the filter drier. third triple evacuate the unit with a vacuum pump, until the pressure gets down to below 1000 microns.(400 is ideal, but I doubt this system will ever see that without replacing the compressor). Fourth, if these tasks are beyond your abilities, call a service company, or have the unit replaced. The reason the compressor shuts off after two minutes is because theinternal overload protector has tripped, this means the compressor is drawing too many amps, since you have replaced the capacitor I cansafely assume, either the internal components of the compressor have been damage by the acid created by the presence of moisture in the system, or the filter/drier, or strainer (internal) have been plugged with debris. Either way it will take several hours of work to save it, or a few hours to replace it. Sorry to have to give ya the bad news.......good luck!
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If you are over drawing amps on start up and the breaker trips then you probably have a locked or"sticky compressor. You can check this by looking at the sticker on the compressor it will have a rating called LRA(locked rotor amps). If it your amp draw is at this or above this number then your compressor has locked up. Now if it reads lower than this then it needs helps starting. Either way you can try a hard start kit. Just follow the instructions on the package; they have just two wires to hook up: one will go to c on the capacitor and one to herm if you have a dual capacitor, If you have separate capacitors for the fan and compressor it just goes on the compressor capacitor. Easily identified by the higher rating. Now if your high rating is during run time then you should replace the compressor capacitor and see if your amp draw falls in line. If it doesn't you most likely have a bad compressor.
If you have a Better Business Bureau in your area, check their website for a reliable service company with a clean record. Although some BBB branches have been caught accepting bribes for good ratings, chances are good that yours is not one of those.
Good day, The shut off is due to the protective overload mounted on the side of the compressor to shut it down, if it can't start. On the side of the compressor is a cover box that contains the overload device, a start relay, and on some models, a start/run capacitor. These items can to a degree tested with an ohm meter, but it is wiser to take them to an appliance parts house for testing. If any are found defective, replace them. If not, the compressor has failed internally and needs to be replaced. Close to $400.00 if not more.
sounds like a bad starting capacitor ... thats about a 2 inch container mounted on or near the compressor .. it will have wires attached ... dont let the compressor keep cycling like that .. it will eventually damage the compressor and the refrigerator will quit working before long anyhow .. there is a little cooling now only because the compressor is successful at starting now an then but that wont last long ...unplug the unit until repairs are done .. move your food to another cooler .. the click you hear is the thermal overload switch shutting off the compressor power when it gets too hot .. the starting capacitors are not expensive and may have plug in electrical connectors that will make replacement easy .. it could be soldered in and that would make it a bit more difficult but usually there is a plug .. there will be numbers stamped on the capacitor .. thats what you need to get a replacement .. or you could remove it and take it with you to a parts supplier .. sometimes there are two capacitors in one container .. both have to be changed at the same time in that case (one for the compressor and one for the fan) ... there will be a part number and a value number .. the value might be something like "16 MFD " at 300VAC that gives you the value of the capacitor (not the phisical size) that example would be "16 micro farads" .. the 300VAC is the voltage rating
the part number gives you the size and mounting configuration as well as the value .. make sure the unit is UNPLUGGED before working on the capacitor .. if you call a refrigerator repairman then it should take him only about 15 min to replace the part if he has an equivalent part with him ... you could give him the model number of your frig and that you suspect the "starting capacitor" before he comes out ..so he can bring one with him ..
The capacitor won't rattle good or bad. The compressor starter/overload relay is probably what causes most compressor starting problems if the compressor is ok. It will rattle if bad and show continuity with an ohm meter upright and not when it's upsidedown
Not good news. sounds like the compressor overcurrent protection device is operating . This suggests that a. compressor is siezed or b . If the compressor has a capacitor to aid starting , this could be u/s. If the latter then this could be replaced at a fraction of the cost of new comp. orst case the compressor is u/s.
In electronics dust has nothing to do.
cleaning will not solve your problem
your problem is due to trouble in vertical section.
mostly it is due to electrolytic capacitor in vertical section is defective.it is common problem.
also check supply to vertical section.
"THE SCREEN SHRINKS TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE SCREEN FOR A FEW SECONDS BEFORE THE PICTURE TURNS UPSIDEDOWN THEN TURNS BLACK." is called fold over.