I had an older Air comp. with a bigger but damaged tank, and i bolted this electrc. motor and pump to the little smaller but no problem Newer Tank (campell also) this one have a worn cylinder, everything works Good now ,But the Auto Shut-off switch does not activate, is the sensor inside the Tank ?How can i find a Diagram?
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Check the vent valve to be sure its allowing the air to escape and the fuel is going in.If it isnt it will pop the uato shut off on the gas hose when filling up.The air has to allow the fuel to displace it while filling the tank.It is a closed emission system and you can have it tested with a low pressure tester or a smoke machine at thje dealer or well equipped local repair shop
If their is air leaking out of the pressure switch after the motor turns off you have a stuck or broken tank check valve. The check valve (PN CAC-437-2) is located on the tank where the line from the pump goes into the tank. There is also a smaller line from the check valve to the pressure switch. If working properly, the check valve lets air into the tank but closes when the motor shuts off. The pressure switch then opens a valve to the smaller line and lets the pressure out of the pump head and lines so the motor can restart when the pressure drops. On rare occasions you can remove the valve and clean it, but more often than not, you have to replace it.
The air is coming out of the pressure switch but the problem is the tank check valve. The tank check valve is on the tank where the large line from the pump feeds into the tank. There is also a smaller line, either plastic or copper, from the check valve to the pressure switch. When the pump shuts off the check valve is supposed to close and the pressure switch opens a valve that lets the head pressure bleed off through the small line. This lets the motor start the next time without any pressure in the head. If the check valve isn't closing properly the air will leak out as you describe.
Just fixed my compressor. It would start ok when the tank was empty but trip the breaker if it tried to start with pressure. Searched and read about weak caps, or problem with check valve or pressure switch leaving pressure in the pump head, etc. Turned out that the black plastic box which holds the 2 start up caps and is attached to the end of the motor with 2 screws had cracked on the bottom. The black box had tilted out enough that the start up caps switch was not engaging. Pushed on the lower part of the box and it started perfectly. Fixed it for the cost of some 2 part epoxy. Maybe not your fail, but definitely worth checking out first.
It sounds like the bladder in your pressure tank is water logged. Turn your pump off and open a tap and let the pressure off. Once the water has completely stopped coming out of the tap go to your pressure tank and pump air into it. There should be more water come out of the tap. Continue to pump are in until you reach the pressure recommended for your tank and there is no longer water coming out of the tap. Close the water tap and turn the pump back on and this should fix the problem. If it does not you will probably need a new pressure tank. The bigger the pressure tank you have also will make the pump work less. I prefer a smaller one myself as there is less change in the shower pressure when the pump cycles than with a bigger tank but this is just a matter of prefference. Some people prefer a larger tank as it uses less power by the pump not working as often.
There is a check valve on the tank where the line from the pump goes to. It should also have a smaller line running to the pressure switch. If the valve or spring inside is broke or stuck it will leak as you describe. You need Campbell Hausfeld part number CV221502AJ.
how can the motor run if u disconnect it from the switch? as the main lead goes to the switch the the motor leads are off the other side of the powersurply?very confuseing as it shouldnt go regardless what wires you took off. i think you should find a wireing diagrame and rewire it.then decress the spring bolt and start it up, should stop
two different problems here! first when it trips the breaker and you try to reset the breaker and not turn off the compressor on its pressure switch it does not unload the air off the head of the pump when you try to start it again,,, ( when it shuts off normally you hear the air drain near the switch,, this unloads the pump to restart)
The most likely reason it is tripping the breaker is that the second stage (smaller cylinder) is not doing the work it needs to do and the first stage (bigger cylinder) is pumping more now!,,,, higher pressure on this side makes the motor work harder.
I would advise rebuilding both sides to get the pump back up to correct running levels it had new.
Ok here are 2 possible solutions. 1. If you have a mower with a sediment bowl under the carb and flat paper air filter, try this. Drain gas from gas tank. Remove the screw that holds the air filter cover. Replace air filter is dirty. Remove the two or three screws that are holding the flat plastic back of air filter cover. Remove the little gasket that is between the flat plastic back and sediment bowl. Make sure you remove all of old gasket. Clean the area around the sediment bowl so it is free of dirt and grim. Use a 1/2 socket (usually) and remove the bolt on underside of the bulb. The remaining gas in the bowl and a little left in the tank will leak out. I let it all run out so if any water is in tank it emptys on its own. Remove the bowl and clean it out with clean rag or paper towel. Use some carb and choke cleaner to spray the carb. Reattach the bowl, and tighten the bolt making sure the ruber gasket between the bowl and carb is not twisted or you will have leaks. Install a new gasket between carb and air filter back replace 2 or 3 screws and air filter and cover. Refill with gas, prime it and then try and start it.
2. If your carb is located ontop of the fuel tank, remove the cross tip screws that hold carb to tank and get a new diaphram (fuel pump in a sense). Replace diaphram and reassemble in reverse. You will have to also remove the bolt that holds tank to motor and the little metal rod that goes from the govonor to the choke.
From what you stated I would think it is number 1.
Oh, the compressor motor's borked or overworked and overheating, or its capacitor failed short (perhaps the motor is shutting off from thermal shutdown...but you get to find out whether that's so. Be safe.) Alternately the temperature sensors have gone touchy on you. Once you gently vacuum it clean, try keeping incandecent bulbs in series with the compressor to get an idea of how loaded that thing is as it runs for those 5 minutes or so; the load might change more than you expect, just pay attention. Hopefully you won't have to replace the compressor or motor; but it's doable if you're a certified technician with like equipment (so you can handle the refrigerant decently.) Most shops will streamline a bunch of similar jobs together to cut the waste and setup time. Bigger conditioners are so much more efficient than little ones...syndicate the A/C?