GE model wjre5500g0w, serial # dm167469g purchased 3/2009 observe water under machine intermittently. not leaking from drain hose to wall. water level, various cycles, soap quantity, cloths quantity do not seem to effect the leak. washer will run several loads without leaking and then the next load will put water on the floor. leak seems to be near the front of the machine.
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Although there are a few leaks
common to all brands, most brands have leaks that are peculiar to their
design. GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, and others all have common and well-known leak
areas. After reading this section, see the chapter about specific brands for
details. A common "leak" zone
is not a leak at all; the wall drain backs up and overflows onto the floor.
This is commonly misdiagnosed as a leak. It can be difficult to diagnose; the
problem may be intermittent. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged,
there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or
third load. While diagnosing a leak, do not be too quick to write this
diagnosis off. If you suspect that your drain
is backing up, but you can't quite ever be there at the right time to observe
the overflow, try this: wrap some toilet paper around the drain hose just
above the wall drain pipe. If it backs up, the paper will get wet. Even if
you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have
crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up. If it isn't the drain, run the
machine with a full load. Without moving the machine, get right down on the
floor and look under the machine with a flashlight. Try to find the general
area where water is dripping to the floor; front or back of the machine, left
or right side. Open the cabinet and look for
mineral or soap deposits where there shouldn't be any.
Trace the deposits in the
natural direction of waterflow (against gravity or centrifugal force) back to
the source of the leak. Fill the machine again and run it through a cycle or
two. Be patient; use your eyes and your brains. There is no magic, easy way
to detect a leak. The usual places are: WATER VALVE: The guts of the fill solenoid valve
sometimes will corrode. You may see water leaking from, or rust on the top of
the solenoid. (See figure G-7A) Since the valves only open during a fill
cycle, this may appear as an intermittent leak. The solution is to replace
the valve. PUMP: Usually from around the pulley seal.
Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal
starts to go bad. The solution is to replace or rebuild the pump. BLEACH DISPENSERS: Bleach is VERY hard on plastic
parts. If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break
off, and the flush water can leak out.
check drip pan, if it full of water and there is no heater on this model you need to upgrade it with heater under drip pan. but check if it's not cracked and drain line goes to it and not on the side... www.appliancesrepairla.com
Difficult if not seen. Most common water on the floor senario is a drain pump leaking:or a perrished pipe from friction.or sometimes, water backs up from the house drainage system due to a restriction.
Normally water on the floor can be from a few places. Mostly a faulty drain pump: possibly a tear in one of the pipes: rust in the drum: possibly water in the centre which comes from the bearings.(if the machine makes a racket when spinning, then i would look at the spin bearing collum). even concider drain pipe at outlet not running out onto floor. Either tilt washer back about 45 deg. to look underneath or possibly remove panel to allow a visual of the motor and components. See if you can pick up any indecationof water having run down from a particular spot. If so rectify. Hope it helped. .Ge washers not farmiliar to me but most problems are similar.
I have this same dishwasher,and have had the same problems that have been described in this forum..
LG model#LDS5811.I bought it from Home Depot as a scratch and dent with no warranty available for about $400.00.
The problems I have seen on my own and have read online have been Intermittent leaks on the left side door,as well as both sides.And in some cases,even wiring and motor problems.
In my case,the water was coming from a leaking O-ring behind the evaporator housing in the door,as well as a small hole in the drain hose in the part of the hose on the left side where the hose loops up the side of the machine behind the panel before it comes out of the back.
You will need to take the left side panel off to undo the wire holding the hose in place as well as remove the bottom plate over the motor to gain access to remove the hose from the pump to get the hose off of the machine.Simply replace the hose.You can order online or buy a replacement at an Appliance Repair store as I did.
To repair the door leak,you will need to remove the lower outside panel that is under the control panel.Inside the door,you will need to turn the vent cover at the top of the door counter clock-wise one-forth turn and remove the entire evaporator unit as a whole.You will see a 1.5 inch O-ring.
I repaired this by getting G.E 100% silicone that you can purchase at a Home Repair store like Lowes or Home Depot and sealing around both sides as well as putting a good bead on top of the O-ring itself,and wipe off the excess after re-installing.
I performed these repairs over a month ago,and have had very good success.No leaks to be seen.I am a A\C,Refrigeration Tech by trade,and have done alot of Appliance repair/installation as a side trade from being a maintenance technician at some very large Grocery chains the last 20+ years.
I completely dissassembled this machine and have found it to be a decent product,but some shoddy materials and questionable assembly practices have created these problems,but good sound engineering.
I hope this helps someone with the problems with this machine so it wont be a total loss.
this may be water from the defrost cycle. if this drains to tray over compressor, check tray is not too full (water evaporates from heat of compressor) otherwise defrost water will go to a seperate container which may have a split or is overflowing. fault can also be caused by poor door seals which would produce too much ice on evaporator pipes