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Today the paint sprayer was working fine until the 5 gallon bucket ran low on paint. The unit started hammering. I tilted the bucket to cover the intake filter and reprimed the unit. after that the unit would not hold pressure abd would not stop hammering. What could have failed or gone wrong?

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  • Master
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Hello Thompson,

Whenever the powered paint sprayer starts hammering, it is usually indicative that it's time to clean the filters and that the spray nozzle might also need to be cleaned out. I find this typically happens to mine whenever I'm painting a large room and wait 30-45 minutes between applying another coat, etc. I usually keep a small 1 gallon bucket of warm water around so I can just put the whole spray gun head into it, while I wait for the 1st coat to dry. That way, the gun doesn't get all gummed up with dried paint, etc. Just wipe it off well before using it again.

I also let the circulation pump run, in the priming position, for a good 5-8 minutes to mix up the paint before I switch over to (turn the knob) for painting pressure, after waiting for that 1st coat to dry, or whenever the paint has been sitting around for more than 15 minutes.

Most times the issue is the paint thickness and contaminations in the paint that cause partial blockage and get into the filter and pressure valve of the power painter. Always stir and shake the paint well before using and make sure that the bottom inlet screen filter is on the suction line and clean it often too. It doesn't take much to cause problems with these power painters, as the orrifices are so small that even small, minute specks of dried paint can cause it to malfunction.

My final recommendations are to completely clean the pressure cartridge, intake (suction line) filter screen. and the filter cartridge typically found in the hand sprayer gun handle. I keep extras of the handle filter and one extra pressure cartridge, so I can quickly swap them out should this happen (and it does/will) whenever I'm painting a large project.

Don't forget if you've never replaced the pressure cartridge valve in the power unit, then you're probably way overdue and I'd get one or two ordered, as the performance and operation won't improve without replacing it. Cleaning is a temporary fix, but the problem will continue to haunt you until you get it replaced.

Also, you can try thinning the paint slightly if you find it diffucult to prime the sprayer and keep the spraying application even and uniform. Just follow the paint manufacturers recommendation printed on the paint container for using a powered paint spray application method. I find that I typically have to thin most finish paints I use but most primers are fine straight out of the bucket.

Also, When you're at the bottom of the bucket, it is sometime better to pour the remaining paint into a one gallon can, so you can have more paint up and over the suction line to prevent it from losing suction. Either that, or switch to a new 5 gallon bucket and pour the remaining paint into the new one.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

PS: If you don't have the owners manual for your powered sprayer, please provide the brand and model number and I'll see if I can locate one online that you can download.

Posted on Dec 09, 2009

  • Mark
    Mark Dec 10, 2009

    Hello Thompson, Just wanted to check to see that you received the information on your powered paint sprayer. I understand that you posted the question some time ago, but Fixya typically takes all the unanswered problems and reposts them once a quarter so the experts can help resolve any long-standing, unresolved client problems.



    I believe I addressed your problem and provided some Very Helpful advice that should get your sprayer working like new again. If you would take a moment to rate my solution as Very Helpful, I would be very thankful and your question will be cleared from the queue and marked as resolved.



    Thank you and best regards! VtToolMan

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Sprayer was working fine and ran low on paint and lost prime. could not get it to re-prime. now its still got paint in it and i can't get it to do anything. i need to clean it ont.


I haven't much experience with airless sprayers but I have heard the bad language from those who use them.

I expect there is still paint in the business end of the mechanism and an air bubble stuck between that and the new paint fill.

I think the sprayhead will have to be removed or dismantled so the air will be able to escape and allow priming to take place. I suggest spending a little time with the instruction manual.

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I have not used my power roller 990 in a few years. I got it out today, turned it on, worked for one second. now nothing


Pump did not get cleaned out right the last time you used it-
Also this time when you clean it take the cover off the frame if its got dried paint on it throw it away, every time you use this roller cover take the cover off and clean it well these types of covers have lots of small little holes in them thats how the paint gets onto the roller cover in a 5 gal bucket fill it with warm water and start to work the paint off it and use a "brush spinner" made by Shur Line it also cleans out roller covers to by throwing the wet paint or dirty water out be sure to "spin the cover or brush" out in a empty 5 gal bucket as it is messy. not-used-power-roller-990-in-few-years-4z2gdaa2roisjyazpqzwiojf-3-0.jpg

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What is the correct concistancy the paint needs to be mixed at for the dynatec psg 45 electric spray gun


It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on paint project.

Jan 06, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

I am looking at buying a Wagner Max HLVP sprayer. The jobs are staining a modest stretch of fencng and a larger staining project of an overhead pagoda-type structure. Is this a good choice or would you...


I was a painting contractor for last 10 years of my work career.

If you are using HVLC cup gun, you will have to select correct tip,
You will need to thin the latex 50-50 with water, and keep paint strained to keep out all clogging.
If the tip is not reversible, then expect disassemble each time clog happens.
And you will be continually re-filling the cup.
And then if the surface is rough, the spray won't flow into the holes.
You have a mess coming your way.

Painting a fence: A roller is the only way to paint/stain rough surface.
Buy big hairy 1" roller cover from Sherwin Williams. Don't get the cheapo 1/4" thick roller cover because it doesn't hold any paint. The big roller holds a big volume of paint.

Now if fence is rough, like cedar, you need to thin the stain.
About 1.5 gallon water per 5 of stain ... and suddenly you have 6-1/2 gallons of stain which means you bought too many gallons of stain.
So don't overbuy the stain. And pick up 2 plastic bucket for mixing.
Empty gallon of stain into mixing bucket > put water into empty gallon > put lid on gallon and shake up > pour water into mixing bucket with stain > to mix: pour mixing bucket of stain back and forth between other mixing bucket until stain is mixed. Do this work on the grass where it won't run out onto concrete surface.

Put roller and frame on a wood pole that you took off the push broom. Now roll that stain onto every surface the roller can touch. Think of it like picking up quarters. If it was money, could you get the roller on that spot >> the answer is yes. Don't try to smooth it out and make pretty. Throw the stain on any way the roller can turn. Customers used to call that 'slapping it on' and I used to say, 'that's how it works, lady.'

Use a piece of masonite at the bottom. If you get stain on anything, wash it off immediately and use a wire brush on concrete surface or towel on smooth surface.

Wait for a day, because stain looks 100% better next day. And then go back with a brush and hit the spots you couldn't get with the roller. It will be faster and cheaper and fewer headaches than trying to spray latex stain with a HVLP cup gun.

To clean the roller: Leave it on the roller frame and wood stick. Turn on water hose and get the roller spinning until it's clean. Do this away from everything you don't want stain on.

Dec 13, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

I own this 0525151 and am trying to spray a latex fence stain. worked for a little while, then nothing. I tried thinning the paint with water and a paint thinner product recommended by the Home Depot...


We used paint sprayers every day for years.

Tips come in different sizes. With oil base paints we used the small tip like a 4-11. With latex we used bigger tips, like a 5-17. Really big spray rigs use 5-19. Tip size matters.

Another important thing is to strain the paint. The paint store sells 5-gallon-size strainers. Put the strainer over a 5-gallon bucket. Pour the paint into the bucket. Lift the strainer up, and finally grab it with your hands and squeeze the paint out. Do this in the grass and then wash out the strainer for next time. Put a lid over the paint bucket so the paint stays wet and clean.

We used high pressure sprayers, and then wrapped a filter right over the intake... but the tips would still clog. We had guns with reversible tips ... rotate the tip around, fire the gun, and the clog was gone.

Maybe your tip is getting clogged real fast. When that happens, the gun simply doesn't shoot. The old guns, we had to take them apart every time the tip clogged. I don't know about the tip on your gun.

Your paint sprayer is probably not very high pressure, which means it would clog easily if stuff was in the paint ... and latex is thick and sticky and it gets crusty as it dries.

Suggestion: I would ask Sherwin Williams about the tip. See if they sell parts or tips at the Home Depot or Sherwin Williams.

Also you can clean the gun out with lacquer thinner. See if the lacquer thinner will pass through the gun. I would take it apart and clean everything with a toothbrush, and soak it in lacquer thinner. It might work, but the home-depot-home-owner-spray-equipment is generally not made for more than a few jobs. Especially the wagner-diaphragm-type guns.

Something else you might consider for a cedar-type picket fence. A roller. Sherwin Williams sells thick shaggy roller covers that hold a lot of paint. The little cheap roller covers can't paint a fence or anything else because they're too thin. We almost never sprayed a fence. We'd put masonite along the bottom and then just threw paint up with a roller [slap it on as the customers used to claim] >>> for cedar pickets, thin the paint with water (1 gallon water per 5 of paint) so it flows into the holes and gaps. Roll the fence, and then go back and touch up with a brush or the sprayer. A paint job on a fence always looks better the next day [unlike some things] so sometimes it's best to wait 1 day before doing the brush work.

Oct 13, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Sprayer will not stop pumping when switched to pump mode after primed it will not shut down it just keeps pumping. .


Paint sprayer.
Flip lever down to prime > paint comes out small plastic hose.
Flip lever up to put pressure on spray line.

Problem: prime keeps running and spray line never gets pressure.

Future solution:
You did not clean sprayer very well last time, or it is rusted. When cleaning, run full 5 gallons of cleaner through machine twice.
You should fill spray line and pump with kerosene if machine sits idle more than few days.
We all forget.

Good news: you have prime. If machine doesn't prime, you probably have to disassemble.

More good news: There are two steel balls inside pump. Tap top one with hammer to loosen. Keep machine running. Keep lever up. Start tapping top one. Tap a little harder... keep tapping ... sometimes it will not free up ... take apart pipe and see if you can nudge ball loose >> be careful not to scratch anything... the sprayer is high pressure and all parts have to fit
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Oct 07, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Spray is very fine or not spraying


Any air leaks in the suction portion of the machine will cause it not to spray or spray weak. This is a airless paint spray correct? Your paint should be at least thin down using 1 gallon of water for a 5 gallons of paint. I find Baer paint is even thicker and had to slowly add more water.

To check if it is your paint. Fill a bucket of just water and see if it will spray your water. Of course after it gets a good prime. Let it recirculate until the water is coming out of the bypass as a solid stream. If it does not spray water then you have either a air leak or your pump packing needs replacement.

Let me know the results and the make and model of the machine.

Mar 20, 2009 | Binks Air Tools & Compressors

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