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When i use the electric saw and put a load on the chain it stops

When i use the saw and put a load on the chain it tends to die and not want to run. I stop and then restart free operating and it is ok but putting a load on it again and it again stops.

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  • 2,220 Answers

The problem you have isnt adequately explained.

  1. You may be tripping a thermal overload.
  2. The chain may be to agressive and overpower the motor.
  3. The chain may be excessively tight, that combined with the load may be the cause.
  4. Limbs as the cut progresses, pinch the bar and chain.
  5. No bar oil or defective oiler.
  6. If equipped with a clutch it may be slipping.
There are other causal factors too. Read your manual, limbs require 2 cuts, the first from the bottom about ½ way through, then offset a couple of inches toward the trunk from the top . HTH
Lou

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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1 Answer

Settings for mixture screws


Most Chain Saw Engines Have Three Carburetor Adjusting Screws:
1. Idle Speed/Throttle Stop - This is the adjustment that controls how much the throttle valve (butterfly) stays open when the throttle trigger is released. If this adjustment is set too low, the engine will die when the throttle trigger is released. The throttle valve (butterfly) simply cuts off the supply of combustible air/fuel and the engine stops. If this adjustment is set too high, the high idle speed will cause the centrifugal clutch to engage and the chain will run. This is a dangerous condition and should never be allowed.
2. Low Speed Fuel Adjustment (marked L on carb, this is the low speed jet)- This is the adjustment that controls the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixture at idle speed. An adjustment that is set too rich will cause the engine to load up and die at idle speed. A mixture that is too lean will starve the engine and cause it to race or surge. An extremely lean adjustment will cause the engine to die, too.
3. High Speed Fuel Adjustment (marked H on carb, this is the high speed jet) - This is the adjustment that controls the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixture at cutting speed. It would not be accurate to say that this is the most important setting, because all of these adjustments need to be accurate for a saw to perform its best, but this is the adjustment that determines how the saw runs in the cut. An adjustment that is set too rich will not allow the saw to reach the RPM level necessary to build maximum power. Throttle response may also be sluggish and the engine would smoke and perform poorly. A mixture that is too lean will allow the engine to reach an RPM level where bearing failure and cylinder seizure are likely. It will also lack power in the cut and tend to run very hot.
The preceding information briefly explains rich and lean running conditions. It also identifies the three adjustment screws and their function. It should be noted that some chain saws lack the high speed adjustment needle. These saws have what is called a "fixed jet" which is set from the factory. "Fixed jet" carburetors are used to prohibit the saw operator from setting the adjustment too lean and damaging the saw. Unfortunately, they also often prohibit the saw from achieving maximum performance.

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I have a 42 cc 18" poulan chain saw I cant get it to idle its either all or nothing. I cant start if the chain break is on and when it starts the chain runs. It dies under stress and then is a...


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Chain stops when pressure put to cutting


This sounds very much like a blunt chain, either sharpen or replace the chain, if the engine is still reving well when the chain stops, then you need to take a look at the clutch and sprocket, check them for wear and breakage. If the saw is incorrectly tuned ( running too rich or too lean ) the engine will die in the cut, clean the air filter as a dirty filter will make the saw run rich and will have low power, clean/replace the fuel filter in the tank, part blocked filters will create lean running and low power.

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It sounds as though you have abraded away the clutch face. I’d try a local saw seller/mechanic, they may be able to adhere a new face to your existing parts.
I went here:
Homelite/Ryobi.com
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use don't match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
Chose “38cc 16" Chain Saw UT-10927” and on the “Clutch – Chain Brake – Drive Case Cover” detail found; item 20, clutch, pn984894001, $15.47; item 21, sprocket and drum assembly, pn984640001, $18.46

Yours is an inboard clutch but it must be removed, the outboard clutch video will help.
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8&feature=PlayList&p=4A4A1DF66590854E&index=0&playnext=1
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check at the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
  2. A length of starter cord or nylon rope may be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. It is probably a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
    Let us know how it worked for you. GL
    Lou


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