Question about Kenmore 20722
Hello I have a Kenmore 70 series washer that will not rinse or spin. I checked the lid agitator and it is loose. I how do can I repair it? or how much will it cost to have it repaired?
If you are talking about the lid switch, the following link explains how to access and tighten or replace one:
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.
If you determine the switch to be defective, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.
This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
One way to check if the Lid Switch is bad is to by-pass it.
See GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase
Rather than removing the entire cabinet, just go through the process for removing the Console and up-plugging the lid switch.
Use a short piece of insulated wire and jumper the switch between the outer two contacts.
Lower the console and start the washer in the shortest cycle that you can.
After it fills part way, stop it and move the dial to the rinse cycle.
If it rinses and spins, the problem is in the switch which is basically held on by a couple of screws.
Of the washer still will not rinse or spin, the problem is likely in the timer.
Without knowing your model number, I couldn't tell you what a switch costs but it should be around $30.
If I'm correct in assuming that your model uses a switch with two screws, (check the Sears parts list for your washer under the Top and Cabinet category for the LID SWITCH) tightening the screws may solve your problem. The Diagram for the Top and Cabinet will show you where the screws connect.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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