I have An LG LD-14ATI Dishwasher, it starts, pumps water in, shows up with E1 in display and pumps water out. Can you please help and tell me what is wrong and why it is doing it. thank you
Well It is probably Faulty Water Inlet Valve
Faulty Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes:
Water drips or slowly enters the machine when the timer is in the off position.
When water continues to enter the washing machine when the machine is in the off position, this is an indication that the water inlet valve is not completely shutting off. The solution to this problem is to replace the water inlet valve
Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
If you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty. Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.
Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
This is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the solenoid.
How to Diagnose?
There are a couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water inlet valve is faulty.
When set to cold wash and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse. This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being supplied, but never hot water.
So, how can the problem be determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to replace the water inlet valve.
Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level (pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load you select determines how much pressure is required before the switch tells the water inlet valve to close.
If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely faulty
Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this tube from performing its duties.
The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure to the switch.
The tube can become cracked. Much like a straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
The tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of the washer could result in a sustained water leak. Post comments if you need further help or information........
Mar 27, 2010 |