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Kenmore washer model 11025852400 - Stopped running after filling with water for the rinse cycle. Previous to that for the past couple months, it would intermittently not advance through the cycles while continuing to run in the current cycle endlessly. When that occured I would turn it off, let it sit a while. Then turn it back on and it would continue through to completion of the wash. Now it will not do anything and is full of water. I've unplugged it, checked the house circuit breaker for the washer, plugged back in but nothing works. Research has identified the lid switch as a possible cause. Is it also possible the timer mechanism could cause this? Also, is there somewhere I can obtain a manual that describes how to disassemble the washer so I can get to the parts?

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  • Rick Sep 24, 2009

    With your advice I did get to the switch. It wasn't quite as easy as described, I couldn't identify which plug to disconnect under the control panel for instance. Once I got to the switch and was able to pull the module out to view, I still could not reach all the clamps securing the cable to the washer case. I was then able to see the seal of the lid switch case has come unglued and seperated. I was able to safely hold the case together with my hands. Plugged the washer in and "wah-lah" it started spinning and was able to drain the water. Now I just need a new switch and to figure out how to get the old part removed from the cable clamps in the machine.

    Thank you very much for your help! This is the 2nd time I've been saved by good people on this site. Being unemployed and nearly out of money, this site has really been more help than I can put into words. I recommend this site to everybody I know!

  • Rick Sep 24, 2009

    With your advice I did get to the switch. It wasn't quite as easy as described, I couldn't identify which plug to disconnect under the control panel for instance. Once I got to the switch and was able to pull the module out to view, I still could not reach all the clamps securing the cable to the washer case. I was then able to see the seal of the lid switch case has come unglued and seperated. I was able to safely hold the case together with my hands. Plugged the washer in and "wah-lah" it started spinning and was able to drain the water. Now I just need a new switch and to figure out how to get the old part removed from the cable clamps in the machine.

    Thank you very much for your help! This is the 2nd time I've been saved by good people on this site. Being unemployed and nearly out of money, this site has really been more help than I can put into words. I recommend this site to everybody I know!

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  • 5,911 Answers

I would check your lid switch, first due to the frequency of use and the fact that it is the most common cause of these symptoms and least expensive to repair. The timer could cause a problem like this, but the likelihood of it occuring precisely every time the rinse cycle starts is not common. Usually when timers go bad, the washer will not start at all. Or, it will begin the wash cycle but never advance beyond the intial fill. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunctuion. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

Testimonial: "You were right on sir! Thank you. The switch is definately the cause, although getting to it is not that easy."

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