I have a sanifloplus connected to a basin and shower only, it pumps water out but will not switch off?

A two-way switch is a type of switch that allows you to control a circuit with two separate locations. It is often used to control lights, fans, or other electrical devices from two different locations.
A two-way switch that triggers a pump to empty out a water basin is likely part of a sump pump system. A sump pump is a device that is installed in a pit or basin in the basement or crawl space of a home. The pit is designed to collect water that may seep into the basement. The sump pump then pumps the collected water out of the basement and away from the home.
The two-way switch you are referring to is likely a switch that is installed in two separate locations. One location would be near the sump pump, and the other location would be in a convenient location for the homeowner, such as near the electrical panel or in a living area. The switch allows the homeowner to turn the sump pump on or off from either location.
It could also be a two-way switch that controls the water level in the basin, when the level reaches a certain point, the switch triggers the pump to turn on and empty the water out.
It is important to consult with a professional electrician or a plumber if you have any doubts about the proper installation or operation of the sump pump and its switches.

Yes,,,
You could fit a shower boost pump if you water supply to the shower is gravity fed. Pump both the hot and cold so that the water pressure is equal...

Salamander pumps are the best and have flow switches which activate when the shower is turned on..

There are cheaper pumps available... you get what you pay for...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/salamander-pumps-rsp50-positive-head-shower-pump-1-5bar/99043

Just for a guide....

Sounds like a drain restriction. I would snake or pull the draind apart trying to find the problem

good luck

Usually Saniflo requires 8" or 9" from top of p-trap to floor level, not from top of shower base to floor level. If the base is raised 8" then you will have enough room to fit a p-trap without cutting the concrete, if you had cut the floor to fit the p-trap then the base is not raised high enough to maintain the water pressure inside to engage the unit.

You will need to get into the pump float area and there should be a float ball that can be adjusted. So the answer is yes.

Thanks for the clarification - This rules out power supply to the unit, motors/pump and points more towards why the water would be pumped from the WC flush and not the basins ...

1. The Saniflo range of macerators have a pressure switch that engages when the water pressure inside the unit activates a microswitch that is encased in a waterproof container. It is possible that the water pressure from the shower and basins is not great enough to activate the internal switch.

So, I would propose two checks

a) If the unit previously worked for the shower and basins something has changed and it is most likely to be gunk inside the unit causing the switch to be less sensitive and only activate on the high pressure that the WC would provide. The fix would be to open up the unit and clean it - please let me know if you need info on how to do this

b) If this is a new install and the shower and basins never worked, you should check the fall in the pipework into the Saniflo is sufficient (should be 1 in 70 from memory - full install instructions are available from the Saniflo website)

c) It could be that if the unit has been in for a long time with a large number of operations that the microswitch is starting to fail and is not as sensitive as it once was (quite unlikely) - but always a possibility!

Replacement microswitches are freely available online and you should also be able to get the exact match spares from Saniflo

If this helps please leave feedback - if not please let me know and I'll try and help some more!

Good Luck :)

sounds like you need septic tank pumped out. or there is a clog in main line if city sewer. hope this helps. duane.

Typically a water pump or booster pump would be placed on the main water feed (this assumes this line feeds not only the main cold line but the hot water system too. I work heavily with booster systems and would ask for futher information. Is this system runing off of a pressure switch such as starting a lower pressure and will shut down at a higher pressure or is it a constant pressure system where as the pump is expected to slow down or speed up to met demands? Either way the system will require a pressure tank, the first method of running will require a larger tank. With regadrs to connection this could be sweat in (with copper) or the use of mechanical connections. A proper "spring loaded" check valve would be required too.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

The outlet is blocked , get an engineer in to fix it pronto

Sounds silly ..but check your toilet flush valve....or water hammer or flow rate..