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I have a kenmore model number prefix 110. direct drive. the basin will not drain. it was able to drain a few times, by letting it sit off for 20 mins, then entered spin cycle. now it will not drain at all, thus not entering spin cycle.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is an excellent description by GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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The model number on your washer or dryer (located on a nameplate around the door opening) should have a prefix code of "110". This number identifies the manufacturer as Whirlpool. If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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I was just looking for a part for mine, too. On the tag inside the front door is the pre-printed prefix 110. that goes with the 86950100 that's printed later. So, I entered 110.86950100 and found the information for my model.

My unit has been working reliably for many years now, and some parts are not available anymore. I think I bought it in about 1985. I replaced a thermal cut-off switch in 2009 for $15 locally. I also have a matching washer. I've never had any failures with it. Bear in mind that I was single for 20 of those years with only a few girlfriend-hours on them. :-)

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Kenmore 80 series numbr CS0318980 stopped mid cycle, no power, water still in the tub... dead as a door nail. Already checked power... We also can't tell by our serial number what year we made our...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (Usually a number such as 110.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts. You should be able to find the model number on the cabinet after lifting the lid.

If you cannot hear the motor turning at all, the problem points to one of a few places.

1. The timer. Check to see if it is moving at all.

2. The timer motor, this drives the timer.

3. The Lid Switch, If this is bad, the washer won't get into drain / spin mode.

4. The motor or capacitor themselves.

Following is the Whirlpool PDF on top load, direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section and sections on testing components.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


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http://www.fixya.com/support/r2880489-determining_age_whirlpool_appliance

Your Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool. The "110" prefix in the model number indicates this.

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Diagram


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searspartsdirect.com
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All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, with the first two offering better exploded view parts illustrations. Shop all of them for the best price.

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