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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
It may take replacement of the toner cartridge and some cleanup to get it working again. Remember that new toner cartridges are sealed and that seal is removed at the time of installation. A cartridge that has been idle and unsealed for some time is likely to be no good
There are 2 double coils. One feeds the 1st and 4th cylinder and the other one the 2nd and 3rd ones. Each coil fires up both cylinder, that is feeding, at the same time. Each coil has 2 wires. The Red/White wire is common on both coils. The Orange wire connects to the coil of 1st and 4th cylinder's plugs and the Gray wire to the coil of 2nd and 3rd cylinder's plugs.
If you are referring to the internal flash I would say you are firing the camera faster then the flash can cycle. There is a green lightning bolt that will come on in the viewfinder when the flash has charged. If you fire the first one it may be a charged flash then again you may have popped the flash composed and tripped the shutter before the flash has had a chance to fully charge. You fire again depleting the charge some more and before it has a chance to recover you fire it again so the flash never has a chance to fully charge. You need to wait till the flash ready light come on in the viewfinder.
Hard to tell what might be going on without knowing what camera you are using or what shooting mode the camera is in.
What I do is set my camera to Manual. Then set the shutter speed for 1/60th a second. Try a shot with the SB-800 attached - firing directly at a subject that is about 6 feet away and check your image.
To expand the range of the flash, you can change the ISO setting. Adjusting from ISO 200 to 800 will allow you to expose more background. Depending on the camera you are using, this may also introduce more noise in the image.
The Speedlite 200e was developed to work "exclusively with [Canon] EOS [film] cameras" according to the manual. It is not even compatible with Canon digital SLRs. Most modern (digital) SLRs control the strength of the flash to properly expose the pictures being captured.
The flash will probably fire when used with a Nikon DSLR but there is no guarantee that the images will be properly exposed. Also, the flash is designed to properly illuminate focal lengths of 35mm minimum. If you are using a wider lens (i.e., 24mm or 28mm) the edges of the image will not be adequately illuminated.
typically this is a problem with flash photography.
are you using flash?
the speed of exposure, the time that the film is exposed is controlled by two curtains that cover the film and prevent light from striking it. One curtain is across the film at the start, and springs open, then the second which was open, springs shut.
for 'long' exposures the first one opens time passes and then the second closes, but to achieve very short times, the second curtain starts to close before the first one has fully cleared the opening. so the edge of the second curtain can be traveling fractions of a second behind the first.
the result is that NOT ALL OF YOUR FILM is exposed to light at the same instant. If you have a flash go off during a fast exposure, only that portion of film that is exposes when the flash fires will get the proper amount of light, the rest of the film being blocked by a curtain. Most cameras are wired to fire the flash as soon as the first curtain is fully open and before the second starts to close. If you have a faster speed set in your camera by mistake, the second curtain has already started to close when the flash goes off. The black area on the right side is that portion of film that was already covered by that second curtain when the flash fired.
if you have the camera set correctly (typically at 1/60th or 1/100th sec) then maybe you should take the camera to a local camera store, and have the curtains timed...
This took me ages. Hope it not too hard to follow. 1st square is a small one made up of the top left four pins of the 1st and 2nd row,and is the only straight square on the board. 2nd square is made from 3rd pin top row connected to 5th pin 2nd row, then make a sq from here. 3rd square is made by connecting 4th pin top row to 3rd pin down on far right row, then make the largest sq from here. 4th square is made by connecting 5th pin top row to top pin in the far right row then make the sq from here. 5th square is made by connecting 3rd pin 2nd row to 2nd pin down far right row, then make the rest of the square from here. 6th square is made by connecting 3rd pin across on 3rd row to 4th pin across on 4th row, then make the rest of the square from here. Finally 7th square is made by connecting 1st pin 4th row to 1st pin 5th row, and make the rest of the square from here. When I describe pins, I am talking about actual pins, not counting gaps where pin could be. Hope this helps.