OK, mower won't turn over, but I need more info as I'm not that repair-savy.
Where am I testing voltage? You said at the solenoid, does that mean remove the solenoid and clip to the wire that feeds it?
Also, that solenoid gets warm after turning the key several times. This would lead me to think it is getting voltage. I also hear the audible click at the solenoid when the key is turned. Is there a way to test this solenoid?
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Re: same problem as above
You are absolutely correct, if you are hearing a clicking sound you are getting voltage. Take one lead (red or black doesn't matter) of your jumper cables if you have them or a very heavy piece of wire and jump across the 2 large terminals of the solenoid while everything is still connected. If your starter cranks, your solenoid is bad. You could also remove the solenoid and with a VOM meter and 2 jumper wires, test the solenoid by connecting the VOM to the 2 large posts and a 12 volt positive and negative source to the 2 small posts or if only 1 small post, positive to it and ground to the frame of the solenoid checking for continuity but the other way is quicker and easier. Oh Yeah, if you use a wire, don't hold it there very long, it can get HOT
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At the moment, I'm talking about turn signal and brake lites.
As far as brake lites, does the high mount brake lite work? If not, did it go out at the same time as the lower brake lites? The reason I ask, while both high mount and lower brake lamps get voltage from the same fuse, but, are wired differently. Did you check the fuse and check for voltage on fuse circuit using a test lite, hot all the time. You can also check the fuse above turn signal switch, that fuse circuit goes hot with the key on. As you can see the turn and lower brake voltage is wired through that flasher. I can't rule out a problem with flasher?
Some instrument clusters may be able to self-test, it will turn warning lamps on and off, plus, sweep the gages, w/o outside input, meaning buss or serial data. If it passes that test, it is considered to be ok.
Yes, checking voltage and ground for instrument cluster is always a good idea, when problem is ongoing. At least, one voltage feed to instrument cluster should go hot with key on, could be problem in that area?
Are there any applicable trouble codes?
I can't look up much info w/o year--make--model?
If you are tech savy and have a volt meter then check to see if wires going to clutch have voltage. if yes then with" engine not running" check voltage again and if yes then take a screwdriver or such down near clutch and see if it is drawn towards clutch. The clutch is an electromagnet and if power is there then it may need distance adjustment per the manual.
Take some sort of 12V tester and measure voltage on the small terminal on the starter to ground. You should get close to 12 V with key turned. If you see the 12 V, test the incoming large battery terminal. It should also be close to 12V. IF that's ok, check the large terminal on the starter. If you have 12V here, then check for bad ground connection. If any of these are not 12V remove cable and clean connection. How are you sure the battery is ok?
ok well you start with the most common, obvious, and easiest to repair.
3. bad relay
4. bad switch
5. open circuit
This is the best order to diagnose your problem with. not sure how electricly savy you are but my first test would be to check for voltage at the bulb. Get yourself a voltmeter, a test light might work but a volt meter can give you the exact reading. unplug the harness from the bulb or vise versa, have someone hold the brake down, stick your diodes into the terminals of the harness and get your reading. if no voltage pull some fuses... still nothin, my moneys on the wires...