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Whirlpool et18tkxjw00 not cooling properly

Ice build up on evaporator prevents it from performing properly. have defrosted it with a hair dryer and found it to work for about 2 or 3 day then build up ice again...what could cause this

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 159 Answers

SOURCE: ice build up in back section of a Whirlpool no frost top freezer refrigerator 66"hx30"wx27"d

your sure the defrost cycle works? sounds to me its not. you need to remove the freezer back and check the defrost components. or put it in the defrost cycle and see if it is working. to get that much frost as you describe the dor would have to be left open. also check all door seals. let me know what you find and we can go from there

Posted on Aug 10, 2007

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool not cooling properly

I would expect the defrost timer to stay in defrost 21 minutes. IT seems your timer is normal.
If turning the ref section temp colder made compressor come on, it could be that the thermostat is worn a little and just needs to stay on a little cooler setting. Check the freezer temp dial and It should be at just slightly more than 1/2 of available setting. If there is A B C you would want to be a little cooler than B about B and 1/4.
I hope this helps K S

Posted on Nov 22, 2007

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: GE side by side Refrig. with evaporator iced up solid.

Yes ill be glad to help John. Your refrigerant level is fine. Remove the motherboard axcess panel on rear of refrig. Locate 3 wire blue plastic connector on bottom of board. Wires are labeled Comp, Line, Def. Jump Line to Def and see if heater gets hot. If nothing happens than replace the heater. Let me know what happens.

Posted on Dec 04, 2007

vanni7
  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR MODEL SR-368 freezes and no cooling.

Hi!!! You have a defrost problem.You need to change the defrost timer mechanism.In Samsung frig the defrost timer is in the main pc board..Good luck..

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

buddymcl777
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator section on side by side losing cooling

Here is the Amana website with the manuals which should show you where the defrost timer etc. is located. Witht your model number and manual it will be a lot easer

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=AMA

And yes the defrost timer thermostat and heater are the most likely problem.

Do not let this keep running and running or you may lose your compressor too which means a lot more expense than now.

Posted on May 09, 2009

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My GE profile performance refrigerator is not as cold as it was


is the evaporator fan working, which normally make the food compartment cool.Are the cooling passages clear, if the fan is not functioning, it will create and ice build up which then needs to be defrosted by shutting it down or with a hair dryer or heat gun.

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I have this Refrigerator, Whirlpool GS6SHAXMQ Side by Side and the chill side does not cool.No alarm and freezer side is fine.


Although the freezer size seems to be fine, it is probably the problem! All the cooling comes from the freezer side into the chill side. So first make sure that the fan is operating, so that cold air is blown into the fresh food side. Then check the ice build up on the evaporator coils (behind shield in the upper section of the freezer). If there is a lot of ice, maual defrost it by unplugging from power and using a hair dryer or heat gun - make sure you are ready to deal with all the water! The ice build up is caused by a failure of the defrost circuit which is made up of the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and a defrost timer that is part of the control board on your unit.
Hope this helps!
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My whirlpool fridge is not working, the freezer is working, I can't understand it. The thermostat inside the fridge seems to be okay, inside the fridge is not even cold. Can you help me. My fridge...


Your cooling comes from the freezer side through cooling tubes to the refrigerator side.

The first thing is to make sure that the evaporator fan is working, because that will blow the cold air into the refrigerator side. If it is working then you probably have an ice build up around the evaporator. You will need to remove the inner rear panel of the freezer to check it.

If there is a lot of ice on the evaporator fins then your defrost circuit is not working. But if you manually defrost the freezer (a hair dryer will speed it up) and make sure the cooling tubes are clean of ice (can feel the air from the hair dryer on refrigerator side) then you will have anywhere from a few days to a few weeks before the ice build up returns.

So you should troubleshoot your defrost circuit and get the parts on order to be ready for the next time.

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Hot doors. fridge does not work. works a little bit when temp is cold andmelts when temp is about 75 degrees or more


open the evaporator coil access panel in the back wall area of the freezer and see if its iced up,is so take a hair dryer and defrost it,then you may need a new defrost heater element or defrost control be it either timer or adaptive,if the coil is covered with ice it cannot cool the unit properly even if the fan is operating

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Refrigerator is not working, the fridge is warm, and the freezer is running well, how can i fix the problem


You need to check the freezer compartment for excess ice build up on the evaporator coil.
also check and see if the evaporator fan is running.
while the unit is in a cooling. if the fan is not running then you need to replace it.

If there is excess ice build up then you can use a hair dryer and defrost the coil there could be a problem witht he defrost circuit.

Mar 12, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My refrigerator is not blowing any air.


Sound like the beginning of a defrost problem. Look into the back of your freezer and see if there is a layer of frost building up on the rear wall. If yes you will need to unplug and remove the rear panel and defrost the evaporator with a hair dryer. After cleared of ice look over the defrost heater to see if burned out or if your defrost thermostat appears to bulge. Also send me the model number of your Whirlpool so I can see if it has a defrost timer or an Adaptive Defrost Control. That would be the most likely reason for the warming of the fresh food section unless the damper is shut to that side preventing air to circulate freely, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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3 Answers

Freezer too cold


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


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The refrigerator is freezing in the drawers


Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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1 Answer

We bought a whirlpool gold fridge side by side a year ago. Lately, it has had some problems cooling both the fridge and freezer. We used to keep both of them on 4 or 5 setting, but now, even on 7 we're...


If fridge is not cooling enough see the reccomandation below from Repairclinic:

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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1 Answer

I've got an electrolux frost free fridge freezer and it is not freezing. The fridge is cool and cold air is entering the freezer compartment but it is not cold enough to freeze the food. I've removed all...


remove the back panel inside the freezer and check for ice build up on the evaporator pipework. if ice build up, this prevents air flow and hence temp rises.
remove ice carefully with a hair dryer and it should work. if problem comes back, you have a problem with the defrost system and get back to me if you want

Aug 05, 2008 | Electrolux Refrigerators

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