Question about Admiral Washing Machines
There are a few possibilities.first remove the belt and turn each pulley by hand if the motor and pump turn freely go to the Trans to the right is agitate and to the left is spin,if it won't turn to the left you either have a locked brake(the tool to remove it costs $70 # 12002012)Do not take out the six 5/16 screws from the bottom there is a spring in there you need the tool to release.you can use a pry bar to try to loosen it you'll want to place it between the outer ring(stator) and the inner hub(rotor) and pull down on it till it releases..this is on the bottom of the machine right above the trans pulley.
Or you may have a frozen tub bearing which you wouldn't want to tackle yourself they can run into more than you bargained for in work and parts expense ,The bearing will go bad if the tub seal has been leaking. you can pop the top on the machine with a putty knife there are two spring clips one on each side about four inches in from the corner.
Once you do that put the machine on in spin and see if you can rotate the tub by hand and free it up.
Now if the pump or motor freeze in either direction those are self explanatory just replace it.Because they should spin freely in either direction.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
Thanks for using FixYa.This issue is related to a burned motor or a jammed transmission unit of your washer. It may have also happened that the drive coupler between the motor and transmission is broke. You'll need to check for the motor coupling or jammed transmission unit. To access the transmission unit and motor you'll need to remove the top panel and cabinet off the washer. After doing this you'll be able to see the transmission unit and motor near the bottom of the tub.
The motor to transmission coupling replacement is a common repair on this style washer. Start by removing the cabinet. Remove the pump from the motor shaft, this is not needed if just replacing the motor coupler. You may be able to shift the motor & pump off to one side. For replacing the motor, you should remove the pump. It is not necessary to take the hoses loose. Tie the pump out of the way after getting it off the motor shaft, if needed. Unplug the motor wire harness.
Unscrew the two 5/16 sheet metal screw holding the mounting clamps to the motor. Release the thumb clamps and take motor loose from transmission. You have reached the point where you can replace the three pieces of the motor coupling. Look at the old pieces to see how to assemble the new, Here is a picture pointing them out.
Place either of the two new white couplings on the transmission shaft with the teeth facing toward the motor. Use an 1/2"socket as a press, place it over the center of the coupling and lightly tap it onto the shaft, taking care not to damage the three little prongs. Place the black rubber union over the prongs on the coupling you just installed. Now, tap the other coupling onto the rear shaft of the motor, prongs facing back toward transmission. The motor can now be re-installed, take care to line up the three prongs with the remaining holes in the union. This can be helped by rotating the motor shaft slightly while holding it up to the coupling. Also, remember that the four rubber caps on the motor mount must match up with the four indents on the frame. Once the coupling is engaged, apply the clips & screws to the motor. Hook up the wires, install the pump and you're finished. Hook thumb clamps, replace the two screws. Put pump back on motor shaft and hook thumb clamps.
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
Buddy if the drums not mving this is the bearings in the drum seized and if you can smell burning dont run it anymore! the only thing you dont want is it to go up in flames the burning is the motor replace this you can buy these on ebay buddy it will be cheaper to buy a motor than try and repair it also buy bearing for the drum and take the drum to a specialist or a friend who knows how to do them get back to me if any probz
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
This style of washer is a one directional washer, in other words the motor only runs in one direction. This washer has a wig/wag solenoid mechanism that selects the brake and spin, and the other side selects the agitation and pump. The wig/wag solenoid on the left ( viewed from the rear of the washer ) controls the spin and brake functions and has a red and white wire going to the wig/wag solenoid. The pump and agitation are selected by the right side ( viewed from the back of the washer ) wig/wag solenoid and has a yellow and white wire going to the wig/wag solenoid. This is a basic description on how the wig/wag solenoid works. Please read the help on the agitation operation. Please read the help on the spin operation. The pump has a valve inside that opens to allow the pump to drain the water, this valve also closes to keep the water inside the washer. The right side of the wig/wag moves a arm to open the close this valve flapper inside the pump. The clutch assembly is responsible for the brake and spinning of the washer. The left side solenoid of the wig/wag pushes the clutch up to engage the brake to stop the basket from spinning, it also allows the clutch to drop down and engage the shoes for the basket to spin. ------------- How to lift top panel - First locate the two clips between the top and front panels of the washer, use a putty knife to push in on these clips. The top will pop up a bit, some washers have a hose running to the filter body, this hose and clamp will have to be undone before you can lift and tilt the top back. This washer also has a small access panel on the back bottom. How to remove agitator - Remove the cap and bolt, lift up hard on the agitator, they can get rather frozen to the transmission shaft. --------- How to remove the inner basket - Once you have the top up and the agitator out, the tub cover will have to be removed. Remove the snubber pad, arm and bolt, disconnect the fill hose from the fill dome. Now locate the 4 metal clips that hold the tub cover/ring to the outer tank, remove them. Picture...The cover can now be removed. There is a special tool called a spanner wrench to remove the nut that holds the inner basket to the top of the spin tube. You may be able to get away with using a large straight screw driver and a hammer. The basket can now be lifted out. Sometimes the wash basket is stuck to the tub block and won't come out. It can usually be broken loose from the block by grasping the inside top of the wash basket with both hands, one on the right side and the other on the left side of the basket. Push down on one side and lift up on the other side. Alternate sides if it is tough to break loose. If this doesn't get it loose, I then place my right foot in the basket and stomp down hard on one side. ------------ thanks.this will help.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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